The Tale Of Two Travellers...

[Ryuden]

Introduction

I have always been into divers' watches for as long as I can remember, but that doesn't mean other non divers' watches doesn't interest me. Just that when presented with a choice, I always end up picking the diver over the other.

As the years go by, I started to diversify my collection. I have been looking around for some variety and here are the tale of two travellers...

Last year, I stumbled upon a unique timepiece which has a respectable pedigree and amazingly its been under the radar considering the history and heritage it carries is something more than just a marketing gimmick. And most importantly, it is a unique feature that I have been looking around for, a 24 hour dial (the Breitling Cosmonaute is pricey). It's a remake of the very first original piece back in 1953 and produced in limited number of only 600 numbered pieces world wide. The watch in question is the Glycine Airman 1953 Vintage.

And recently, I have acquired a Rolex which I would never have considered previously as it was "small" at 40 mm. This Rolex is very much under the radar though it belongs to the sports model category like its Gmt Master, Submariner and Sea Dweller cousins. The popularity of this Rolex is amazingly low when one compares it with the other sports models, and that's a good factor as it keeps the price of this sports model affordable comparing to the others in the sports category. Introducing the black Explorer II 16570.







Here's a personal review of the two similar concept watches but with their own specialties...

[Ryuden]

1) Case

The Explorer II case is smaller at 39.5mm (to be precise) against the Airman which is at 42mm case size. Lying side by side, the case difference wasn't noticed straight away. The thick broad 22mm lugs of the Airman does make the 42mm size look more substantial, while the Explorer II which have the more trimmed down 20mm lugs makes the watch look relatively "small" based on today's big watch market.

[Ryuden]

2) Dial

I had the option of the black or the polar explorer II, while the latter seems to be the more popular colour, I have decided to go for the black just like the original Explorer II 1655, which also happens to be my personal colour preference. The Airman is cream off-white beige vintage coloured and it only comes in this option. Both the Explorer II and Airman dials are legible though the one-hand-lesser on the Airman gives it a much less "busy" appearance. The Explorer II dial reads in a 12 hours format and the Airman dial reads in a 24 hours format which needs some getting use to, but once you are accustom to it,telling time is a breeze...

Both dials have a date window at the 3 o'clock position. The date wheel of the Explorer II is black font on white while the Airman is red font on white.

[Ryuden]

3) Literature

Unnecessary wording is close to non existent on both watches. On both dials, the top half bears the Brands and the models plus the additional "oyster perpetual date" on the Explorer II. It's not too much, and makes for a clean dial on both watches.








The bottom half, two thin lines that acknowledges the Explorer II is cosc certified while the Airman has the word NOON plus the AM and PM indicators on its 3 and 9 o'clock.






Thanks to their very clean dials, the legibility level is excellent.

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4) Caseback/Depth rating

Like all Rolexes, the Explorer II has a solid case back, and like most, it's a plain clean one to protect the Calibre 3185 movement ticking inside. The Airman however dons a clear case back to showoff its Calibre GL293 (ETA 2893) movement plus the plane engraving on its rotor like most of the Glycine Airman/s.

The Explorer II has a rating of 100m as indicated by its twin lock crown which is more than enough for it to survive recreational diving, which is between 30m to max of 40m. The Airman has a rating of 200m as inscribed on the case back. Again, more than enough to go recreational diving with it strapped on the wrist. Though both are not intended professional diving instruments as it lacks the timing bezel, one need not worry if they want to bring them for a dip.

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5) Thickness , Crystal

Though the Explorer II looks to be slimmer than the Airman, both watches have exactly the same thickness of 12mm. The slim profile of the Explorer II is due to the slimmer center case but its protruding flat crystal contribute to the overall thickness of the Explorer II. The Airman has a dome crystal with an anti reflective coating on the inside, and it's crystal is flush to the top of the rotating bezel.








Both crystals are sapphire and have a cyclops over the date window to enhance the readability of the date. Some hate the cyclops whilst some welcome it. Me...? I am neutral.

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6) Band

The Explorer II comes with the oyster bracelet (20mm by 16mm) and fliplock clasps. Reasons why it took me so long before I finally caved to purchase this Rolex was the "small" case size and "cheap" hollow bracelet with the thin sheet of pressed steel clasps. If it wasn't for the newer, bigger case and solid bracelet Rolexes, I might not have reached this point...I guess. From my first encounter with my first Rolex, Dssd, I realised that it's more than just some upgrades, it's a gradual transformation. And a couple of other earlier testing out with the 5 digits models (sub 14060 and sub date 16610) that I understood that the 5 digits are truly the last of the "tool" era of Rolexes where function comes first before form.

The Airman comes mounted on a black heavy duty Nato strap (22mm by 22mm) with signed buckle and thin metal rod keepers. It's an approach by Glycine to keep the professional instrument theme and a no-nonsense tool for Pilots and Travellers. And having pin-hole lugs mean that the spring bar is perfect for all kinds of Nato or Zulu straps, without the fear of the spring bars accidentally popping out of the lugs as there are no "teeth" on the spring bars. Just one smooth rod. And vintage dial means the Airman pairs well with brown leather straps.

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7) Wearability

As both watches are merely 12mm in thickness, it sits flat on the wrist and can fit inside a cuff, and the wrist shots demonstrates how it wears. Again the case difference of 2mm between the two isn't instantly obvious. Probably because the Explorer II with its steel oyster bracelet makes the presence more substantial then the actual size itself. And as captured, legibility is definitely the strength of these watches.

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8) Weight

If you are looking for a hefty wrist barbell, this is not for you. Both watches are "light". You can still feel it's presence without the unnecessary gravitational pull down your arm. And it's predictable that the Explorer II will weight heavier than the Airman as the Airman is mounted on a heavy duty Nato and not steel bracelet. Even with full links, the Explorer is still relatively light thanks to the hollow links and stamped clasps which reduces the weight of the bracelet substantially compared to the newer solid links oyster bracelet. Again, this is where to Rolex, function over form.

[Ryuden]

9) GMT Function

We have now reached the ultimate comparison.

Both watches are built to be able to track a second time zone. However, the execution is different.

The initial purpose Explorer II was to inform the wearer if it was day or night. It was created for cave explorers and the Poles explorer, where at times, in the darkness of the caves or the brightness of the Poles, determining if it's day or night can be quite a challenge. Now it serves as a second time zone. It has a forth red gmt hand with a big triangle tip, pointing to the fixed outer bezel in 24 hours format per cycle, to act as the home time when travelling abroad, or to track a second time zone when you are at home.






The Airman has an interesting way of tracking a second time zone. There's no extra forth hand, but instead, a moving bezel. And since the way to read time is by the 24 hours dial, it just makes brilliant sense to place a 24 hours external bezel which can be rotated to the desired time zone without the need to adjust the current timing on the watch. So the wearer have a choice to use the rotatable bezel and set it on the travelled destination (so that the wearer does not need to change the main timing) or to change the timing to the travelled destination and set the outer bezel to home time. If one were to read up on the history of the Airman, it was specifically created for Pilots by a Pilot (Chat Brown who was a DC 4 Chief Pilot). And Glycine actually patented the trademark bezel locking crown mechanism which is located at the 4 o'clock.





Both watches serve their intended function flawlessly, though it takes some getting use to telling the time from the Airman.

[Ryuden]

10) Conclusion

The Explorer II is the new kid on the block. It has to earn its keeps among the other senior brothers who's in the rotation. It's future looks bright I can say, as I need a daily Rolex that's under the radar, and for most of the time, unnoticeable. It doesn't have the trademark rotating bezel of the sub/sd/gmt which can be recognised from a mile away, yet it has other bonuses (date and gmt) which is worth the dough I paid for. This is the Rolex that can fit in any situation, be it formal or casual, without looking too over-the-top. Not a very popular model? Doesn't really matter to me cause...a Rolex is a Rolex.

Having wearing the Airman in rotation for quite a while now, and it seems to be a favourite. Slim, light and unique. Received many comments from curious colleagues and clients (never had random people ask me about any of my watches) as they thought my watch timing was wrong. It's quite a conversational starter even to the non WIS. But it's rarely being mounted on the wrist as of late, as I seems to develop a thing for bracelets (previously I was a hardcore straps guy). Been trying to source out for a good alternative bracelet or miraculously the Glycine Airman bracelet (even went directly to Glycine agent but to no avail) from some donors which could fit the Airman and maybe it will make its way back into the rotation. A wonderful piece with very rich heritage and history to be proud of.

[Ryuden]

Final words

Some may wonder and think that the best comparison is between the Airman and Gmt-Master II, as both have the similar rotating bezel which I couldn't disagree BUT...this comparison between the Glycine Airman 1953 Vintage vs Rolex Explorer II is the best comparison because these who watches can only keep track of two time zones and not more. Best comparison for the Gmt-Master will be an Airman Base 22 where both watches can keep track of three time zones.

For those who are frequent travellers, these two timepieces fit the bill for a low-profile travelling watch where you need to keep track of current time and home time, plus tough enough to be taken for an adventure.


IF you have made this far...thanks for dropping by.

[Ender]

Nice write up!
While both watches don't sing to me (I wld choose the Glycine over the Explorer anytime though), I feel your love for both pieces and I you for making the effort to provide the write up

[Ryuden]

Thanks for making it this far bro.

Both watches doesn't sing to me too at first but having a very concentrated collection of diving watches, I need some varieties, something that's out of the diving category.

Interesting that you will take the Airman over the Explorer II. Any particular reason?

[Ender]

...
Interesting that you will take the Airman over the Explorer II. Any particular reason?

Airman's got a retro vintage vibe to it, especially like the 'noon', 'am' and 'pm' markings