5513

[flakkampf]

Hi all senior out there, like to find out is 5513 (feet first) with gloss dial worth to get?
is matt dial a more collectable than gloss dial? Hope to hear advice from all seniors soon, thanks

[xela]

+1 for matte dial..

[Watcha]

Gimme a Matt pls.

[MsLucifer]

yup, matt holds more appeal to me too.

[flakkampf]

Thanks to senior for advising, cheers

[Felix]

If its an early 5513, yeah gloss gilt dial is to die for, but for a later serial, then go for matt dial...

[Alexlow]

It's a no brainer but yes Matt dial is the way to go.

[hannhann00]

matte's are mega,, go with that if you can find one ]

[AK]

Hi all senior out there, like to find out is 5513 (feet first) with gloss dial worth to get?
is matt dial a more collectable than gloss dial? Hope to hear advice from all seniors soon, thanks

Well it all depends on the agedness of the watch. Do you like it spanking new? or super patina'ed?

A gloss 5513 feet first is one that has white gold surrounds. In terms of value, hovers around USD $4000-5000+ depending on case and dial condition.

Gloss 5513s that are collectable are those with cracked-spyder variations - there are distinctive lines cracked all over the dial, making it unusual. Throw in a super yellowish-orangy patina to the tritium at the lume plots, you got yourself a winner.

Early 1960s ref 5513 pointed crown guards "Gloss" dials are amazing, with chapter rings, gilt letterings. Most of these gloss dials are subjected to "center-swirls" which makes a perfect dial difficult to come by.

when buying vintage Submariners, look for unique differentiating details that will set the same reference model apart...after all, you are after the natural progression of agedness, one that cannot be replicated due to perpetuity.

[taxico]

A gloss 5513 feet first is one that has white gold surrounds. In terms of value, hovers around USD $4000-5000+ depending on case and dial condition.

Gloss 5513s that are collectable are those with cracked-spyder variations - there are distinctive lines cracked all over the dial, making it unusual. Throw in a super yellowish-orangy patina to the tritium at the lume plots, you got yourself a winner.

when buying vintage Submariners, look for unique differentiating details that will set the same reference model apart...after all, you are after the natural progression of agedness, one that cannot be replicated due to perpetuity.

at the moment i would not pay more than US$3750 for a later gloss dial (original to case) 5513 in very good condition - head only price. good used 93150 + end links should cost about US$700-900 depending on condition.

personally i would not buy any gloss dial with cracks either - they are signs of damage. the only time i have bought one was when i paid "parts price" for it, excluding the price of the dial.

5513s are not rare - i recommend saving your money and getting a model with the correct dial/hands/case in good condition.

[flakkampf]

Is Red Sub a good collecting model?

[AK]

at the moment i would not pay more than US$3750 for a later gloss dial (original to case) 5513 in very good condition - head only price. good used 93150 + end links should cost about US$700-900 depending on condition.

personally i would not buy any gloss dial with cracks either - they are signs of damage. the only time i have bought one was when i paid "parts price" for it, excluding the price of the dial.

5513s are not rare - i recommend saving your money and getting a model with the correct dial/hands/case in good condition.

I concur with your statements. My price range was considering a full box + guarantee set. Should have stated that earlier.

Without box, papers, your price range is right on the nail.

5513 reference is the longest production sports model by Rolex. In terms of rarity, it is not that rare. Depending on which era a collector is interested in exploring, I would say that the desirables ones are from 1960s onwards to beginning 1970s. Given the maxi dials (from mk1 to mk5), precomex dials, serif dials, etc, there is a long list of differentiating factors that determines the price and collectability.

Having said that, your perception of cracked dials being damaged does not necessitate that of other collectors in the scene. I would take a cracked dial over a normal dial on any given Sunday, due to the natural effect of aging. Now, there's a dime a dozen debates one can carry on, once again --- personal preferences at work.

taxico: Good advice on the correct dial, hands and case. Always do your homework, as many vintage dials and parts are often swapped around.

flakkampf: Any vintage Rolex is collectable. Red submariners, Double Red sea-dwellers, any Oman dial'ed Rolex, there are too many variations to pin point. Buy what you will wear, and if you intend to see an investment value in it, pass it down to your offsprings and let them take those exponential monetary curves. If you want to see an explosion on your vintage Rolex in this lifetime, I am sorry to say, it ain't gonna happen anytime soon. Not for 20 years after from the day of your purchase. If you can turn back time, yes, go back to the 1980s, stroll down to Peninsular Plaza, and buy up all the Tudor Monte Carlos, Rolex Cosmographs and Daytonas, and in 2012, you have yourself an ROI by a good comfortable margin. 10 watches for examples, will get you a nice BNIB (<LOL!) Skyline GTR plus some change to modify whatever you like.

[watchcollectables21]

Matte dial 5513 for me. Here's a useful site I used when deciding on dial variations: http://doubleredseadweller.com/5513maxi.htm