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I thought this article is better suited to be posted here than the Kopitalk (I have posted some articles there). Hope this can help some of you who intend to venture further
How to choose a vintage
By JACK WONG
BELOW are general tips on selecting your vintage watch.
First golden rule of thumb: originality is everything. If a watch is left in its original condition, despite appearing old to the undiscerning, it is worth much more than one that has been modified.
Sympathetic restoration (bringing the piece as close to its original condition as possible) that involved dismantling the whole watch and cleaning it is generally acceptable so long as visible parts of the watch are not changed. On the other hand, it is a plus if movement parts that are worn out are replaced by original OEM parts.
One of the most important and valuable part of the watch is the dial. The dial must be original and not tampered with. Some common descriptive terms that suggest otherwise, such as 'redial', 'reconditioned' or 'expertly refinished dial' are taboo to the hardcore vintage watch collector.
Vintage watches that show luminescence on the dial that are made before the 1980s are usually applied tritium, or radium in the case of the earlier radioactive ones and these appear anything from ivory to dark brown in coloration. This patina is perfectly fine, and in fact, a desirable feature for the collector especially if the colour is consistent throughout and developed naturally with no sign of damage (mouldy appearance or flaking).
Another very important part of the watch is of course its case. An overly machine-polished watch would mean that some metal from the case has been shaved off, and the shape of the watch has been altered to some degree. This is usually frowned upon.
Certain brands, notably Rolex, which has a serial number and model number etched in-between the lugs of each watch (for most brands, the serial number is simply found on the movement or back of the caseback) must be clear and not tampered with. There should be almost no pitting or damage to the area where the caseback is screwed (or snapped) onto the case as this will jeopardise the waterproofing capability of the watch.
Some watch hands are known to cost a small fortune on its own as they are extremely rare for certain models. Generally, if the watch hands have some luminescence (usually inert by now), the coloration of the patina should resemble very closely to that on the watch dial or look slightly more aged.
Watch crowns (and pushers in the case of a chronograph watch) are usually replaced as part of watch-maintenance for waterproofing processes. Generally this is fine as long as that part is original stock and that model does not have parts that are only unique in certain watch variants. (The smaller sized pushers of the early Omega Speedmasters have been discontinued and are now with larger sized crowns.)
Of course, if the watch has an original crown (or pusher) that has never been replaced at all, the collector runs the risk of having water entering the watch. In any case, no vintage watch should be treated as a waterproofed watch unless pressure tested.
Watch movement calibers must be aligned with the same model of the watch. Movement must be checked for any foreign parts that are modified to fit and used as a substitute. The serial number on the movement (if any) must correspond with the same period of manufacture on the watch case. Differing period suggests a 'Frankenstein' watch.
Finally, if the vintage watch comes with a clean, original crystal strap (though some accompanying bracelets are rare and very valuable on its own), and other ephemera, then this is considered a bonus and the watch usually sells at a higher premium. These are good to have, but not essential. Hence before buying any vintage watch, do your due diligence and of course, caveat emptor (buyer beware).
The Business of Time
Published August 26, 2011
I thought this article is better suited to be posted here than the Kopitalk (I have posted some articles there). Hope this can help some of you who intend to venture further
How to choose a vintage
By JACK WONG
BELOW are general tips on selecting your vintage watch.
First golden rule of thumb: originality is everything. If a watch is left in its original condition, despite appearing old to the undiscerning, it is worth much more than one that has been modified.
Sympathetic restoration (bringing the piece as close to its original condition as possible) that involved dismantling the whole watch and cleaning it is generally acceptable so long as visible parts of the watch are not changed. On the other hand, it is a plus if movement parts that are worn out are replaced by original OEM parts.
One of the most important and valuable part of the watch is the dial. The dial must be original and not tampered with. Some common descriptive terms that suggest otherwise, such as 'redial', 'reconditioned' or 'expertly refinished dial' are taboo to the hardcore vintage watch collector.
Vintage watches that show luminescence on the dial that are made before the 1980s are usually applied tritium, or radium in the case of the earlier radioactive ones and these appear anything from ivory to dark brown in coloration. This patina is perfectly fine, and in fact, a desirable feature for the collector especially if the colour is consistent throughout and developed naturally with no sign of damage (mouldy appearance or flaking).
Another very important part of the watch is of course its case. An overly machine-polished watch would mean that some metal from the case has been shaved off, and the shape of the watch has been altered to some degree. This is usually frowned upon.
Certain brands, notably Rolex, which has a serial number and model number etched in-between the lugs of each watch (for most brands, the serial number is simply found on the movement or back of the caseback) must be clear and not tampered with. There should be almost no pitting or damage to the area where the caseback is screwed (or snapped) onto the case as this will jeopardise the waterproofing capability of the watch.
Some watch hands are known to cost a small fortune on its own as they are extremely rare for certain models. Generally, if the watch hands have some luminescence (usually inert by now), the coloration of the patina should resemble very closely to that on the watch dial or look slightly more aged.
Watch crowns (and pushers in the case of a chronograph watch) are usually replaced as part of watch-maintenance for waterproofing processes. Generally this is fine as long as that part is original stock and that model does not have parts that are only unique in certain watch variants. (The smaller sized pushers of the early Omega Speedmasters have been discontinued and are now with larger sized crowns.)
Of course, if the watch has an original crown (or pusher) that has never been replaced at all, the collector runs the risk of having water entering the watch. In any case, no vintage watch should be treated as a waterproofed watch unless pressure tested.
Watch movement calibers must be aligned with the same model of the watch. Movement must be checked for any foreign parts that are modified to fit and used as a substitute. The serial number on the movement (if any) must correspond with the same period of manufacture on the watch case. Differing period suggests a 'Frankenstein' watch.
Finally, if the vintage watch comes with a clean, original crystal strap (though some accompanying bracelets are rare and very valuable on its own), and other ephemera, then this is considered a bonus and the watch usually sells at a higher premium. These are good to have, but not essential. Hence before buying any vintage watch, do your due diligence and of course, caveat emptor (buyer beware).
The Business of Time
Published August 26, 2011
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