Authentic Rolex Sub VS Grade "A" Swiss Replica

[KayzHeiden]

Hi Folks,

There is something in my mind that I cannot get an answer, I hope any senior/expert/dealers can give me an answer.

As above the title, What is the real differences between Authentic Rolex Sub VS Grade "A" Swiss Replicas? Especially those Two Tone subs?

Personally, I own few Rolex & Submariners, but there is a 16613 TT Sub, I actually purchase 2nd hand from a shop in Chinatown at 8k plus, well that was a yr ago. As per normal I send in for verification and turn out fine.

In recent, I read that Grade A Swiss made replica are exactly the same in all details and movements within our naked eyes.

What is the real difference from those Swiss Replicas and a real deal?

It piss me off when we purchase watches that are easily 5-15k and there are those that are few hundreds and no differences...

I appreciate some constructive responses. thank you.

[Joshuasjw]

Actually to what I know is even the best rep can be identify. First is the date. The date will be extremely big compare to gen when the cyclone eye just enlarge 2.5 times. The wording 100 = 300 ft is especially near like no gap in between the wording. The clasp n bracelet adjustment is super stiff. Rolex engravement at clasp is like carve. Chapter ring isn't as obvious as well plus serial number is a little to far from the rolex wording. Other then all this I guess only can open up n see to prove whether is authentic or rep.

[Trinidad]

Hi Folks,

There is something in my mind that I cannot get an answer, I hope any senior/expert/dealers can give me an answer.

As above the title, What is the real differences between Authentic Rolex Sub VS Grade "A" Swiss Replicas? Especially those Two Tone subs?

Personally, I own few Rolex & Submariners, but there is a 16613 TT Sub, I actually purchase 2nd hand from a shop in Chinatown at 8k plus, well that was a yr ago. As per normal I send in for verification and turn out fine.

In recent, I read that Grade A Swiss made replica are exactly the same in all details and movements within our naked eyes.

What is the real difference from those Swiss Replicas and a real deal?

It piss me off when we purchase watches that are easily 5-15k and there are those that are few hundreds and no differences...

I appreciate some constructive responses. thank you.

Forget what you read.
No "off the rack" replica can pass off as real to any of the true Rolex bros here.
Not even what A grade or AAA grade.

The truly scary "replicas" are the frankens and the custom builds.
Sometimes these are masterpieces of work themselves.

However, i hv said this before and will say it again to this replica people trying to pass off fake for real to impress. You may hv deceived others but in the end you yourself are whom you hv deceived the most.

[KayzHeiden]

Actually to what I know is even the best rep can be identify. First is the date. The date will be extremely big compare to gen when the cyclone eye just enlarge 2.5 times. The wording 100 = 300 ft is especially near like no gap in between the wording. The clasp n bracelet adjustment is super stiff. Rolex engravement at clasp is like carve. Chapter ring isn't as obvious as well plus serial number is a little to far from the rolex wording. Other then all this I guess only can open up n see to prove whether is authentic or rep.

thanks for the response, I believe you are referring to the 116613. Do u know doesn't the gold on Swiss Grade A replica watch fade? I hear they are as good lasting a real rolex.

[KayzHeiden]

Forget what you read.
No "off the rack" replica can pass off as real to any of the true Rolex bros here.
Not even what A grade or AAA grade.

The truly scary "replicas" are the frankens and the custom builds.
Sometimes these are masterpieces of work themselves.

However, i hv said this before and will say it again to this replica people trying to pass off fake for real to impress. You may hv deceived others but in the end you yourself are whom you hv deceived the most.

I am sure there are people here who bought replica watches without knowing and worn it for many years. These days, even 2nd hand watches dealers are quiet scary. I encounter a few really discreet sellers in this forum, some even ask to transfer a certain sum before meeting up esp from Malaysia. You might not know you got a super grade replica by paying original price. I never really seen a Replica AKA FAKE Rolex watch except for those low quality ones can tell easily within secs. These day, I wasn't even sure if you send in to RSC, those technicians really open up the case and check everything. I have heard that some only look and check from exterior and jump into conclusion, its real. -_-|

[triton]

over the years, the non original rolex can look as good as the real ones. quality has improved. as such, my advice to those who are buying any rolex regardless from who, it is better to meet face to face to deal either @ RSC or a trusted watch technician of buyer's choice.

usually i would go for a complete set. yes it is not foolproof. but at least it is one step closer of the watch is original. if there is a warranty card, chances for the watch to be fake is reduced. secondly, it must be stamped by a authorized dealer. the chances of the watch being a fake if the watch has a warranty card that is stamped by a authorized dealer is greatly reduce based on external looks.

second, the rehaut engrave serial number to matched warranty card/paper.

third, sometimes the give away is the laser eteched rolex symbol on the glass. it must be clear and distinct. yes the non original can have the rolex symbol but it is not clear and distinct.

fourth, the numerals on the date disc is also another give away. one needs to go through the entire spectrum from 1 to 31. take note of how each number is displayed. the non original ones cannot replicate every single digit.

fifth, the magnification can also be a give away.

sixth, the finishing on the case/bracelet especially the brushed look is also another give away

seventh, the beveled edge has to be distinct but smooth.

eighth, the bracelet should have clear and distinct marks of wordings. it must be deep and not shallow.

it is hard to tell someone how the above points have to be looked at. it takes time and experience in handling many rolex watches.

do note that i am still learning, the journey never ends.

as mentioned before, bring it to a trusted service watch technician or RSC. they are in better position to most of us. they handle more rolex watches than most of us. honestly, to pay say ~$100 for verification against a ~$10k watch for a peace of mind. i would.

do note that I have limited knowledge and that it is not easy to spot a non original for myself. the above points are to be used as a guide. I still get my watches authenticated by qualified watch technicians

Hi Folks,

There is something in my mind that I cannot get an answer, I hope any senior/expert/dealers can give me an answer.

As above the title, What is the real differences between Authentic Rolex Sub VS Grade "A" Swiss Replicas? Especially those Two Tone subs?

In recent, I read that Grade A Swiss made replica are exactly the same in all details and movements within our naked eyes.

What is the real difference from those Swiss Replicas and a real deal?

I appreciate some constructive responses. thank you.

[giggss]

over the years, the non original rolex can look as good as the real ones. quality has improved. as such, my advice to those who are buying any rolex regardless from who, it is better to meet face to face to deal either @ RSC or a trusted watch technician of buyer's choice.

usually i would go for a complete set. yes it is not foolproof. but at least it is one step closer of the watch is original. if there is a warranty card, chances for the watch to be fake is reduced. secondly, it must be stamped by a authorized dealer. the chances of the watch being a fake if the watch has a warranty card that is stamped by a authorized dealer is greatly reduce based on external looks.

second, the rehaut engrave serial number to matched warranty card/paper.

third, sometimes the give away is the laser eteched rolex symbol on the glass. it must be clear and distinct. yes the non original can have the rolex symbol but it is not clear and distinct.

fourth, the numerals on the date disc is also another give away. one needs to go through the entire spectrum from 1 to 31. take note of how each number is displayed. the non original ones cannot replicate every single digit.

fifth, the magnification can also be a give away.

sixth, the finishing on the case/bracelet especially the brushed look is also another give away

seventh, the beveled edge has to be distinct but smooth.

eighth, the bracelet should have clear and distinct marks of wordings. it must be deep and not shallow.

it is hard to tell someone how the above points have to be looked at. it takes time and experience in handling many rolex watches.

do note that i am still learning, the journey never ends.

as mentioned before, bring it to a trusted service watch technician or RSC. they are in better position to most of us. they handle more rolex watches than most of us. honestly, to pay say ~$100 for verification against a ~$10k watch for a peace of mind. i would.

do note that I have limited knowledge and that it is not easy to spot a non original for myself. the above points are to be used as a guide. I still get my watches authenticated by qualified watch technicians

wow very nicely explained

[taxico]

...What is the real difference from those Swiss Replicas and a real deal?

It piss me off when we purchase watches that are easily 5-15k and there are those that are few hundreds and no differences...

you will almost always be overpaying for a rolex watch - new or pre-owned. i always remind myself that labour, marketing and that feel good effect is not free.

you're paying for a robust rolex movement, bullet proof when compared to an ETA used in most reps (chinese ETA clones are worse). if you're so inclined, google 3135 vs eta.

you're paying for the 904 steel used in the watch head (and in the current line, also the bracelet).

you're paying for the fit and finish of the parts to be good and reliable, and made to much higher manufacturing tolerances (eg, the end links fit almost perfectly in a genuine sub, but much looser on a rep).

you're paying for a watch that does what it was advertised to do without fear that it will break. the hour hand will jump on a genuine gmt/exp2. the sub will go beyond 300m without water ingress. the datejust will sparkle and sit well on your wrist without hurting from the sharp poorly made bracelet.

finally, you're paying for an international network of service centres to attend to your watch (at a cost if out of warranty) when it does breaks down.

i don't think there is a rep two tone sub that uses real 18k gold for the bracelet. i know there have been a few batches of 14k solid gold TT bracelets on the market (compared to 18k, the 14k gold looks different). the 18k versions are wrapped. except the manufacturer, no one will ever know how thickly they are wrapped. the crown and bezel are also wrapped (better quality) or plated (normal stuff) unless you change them for rolex 18k parts. i have no idea how to distinguish wrapping from plating without damaging the item.

a $250 rep may look similar from afar, but up close, certain aspects of the watch will shout out to collectors that it's a fake. if you want a rep that looks and functions 99% close to a genuine rolex up close (say a franken piece), you'll have to pay top dollar (more than 65% the price of the real deal).

someone who doesn't care about watches can happily wear a $100 rolex rep, but he probably would not personally buy a rep to wear if he didn't care about watches. a seiko or casio or timex is more practical.

someone who cares about watches (i assume people who join this forum) will always have the notion that THIS IS A FAKE at the back of his/her mind when they wear or spot a rep. that is a big difference to the psyche.

i would rather just spend the money on another watch (not rep) or a cheaper rolex or save it for the real exact model to be bought at a later time than feel like that.

there is no such thing as a grade A or AAA grade rep. they are made with the same modern philosophy of profit margins. if calling it AAAAAA++++**** gets them more money... why not! the buyer need not know that the seller gives them fancy names just to make a few hundred dollars more.

i don't like overpaying for a watch, but if you know the sum of a watch's part, you can ascertain whether or not the amount you're spending is excessive.

$2,000-$2,250 on a genuine datejust is not excessive. $1,000 for a franken datejust (everything genuine except movement) is excessive because the movement is worth around $1,250 on the used market.

and oh... a genuine rolex is almost entirely (if not entirely) manufactured in switzerland. a "swiss" replica is definitely almost entirely not.

[Joshuasjw]

thanks for the response, I believe you are referring to the 116613. Do u know doesn't the gold on Swiss Grade A replica watch fade? I hear they are as good lasting a real rolex.

what I know rep gold shld be plated and the gen one now is 18k solid gold instead. If not u can try getting a rep to compare with ur gen so u can identify the differences. To me if I can afford a gen y go for a rep plus rolex able to substain it's value. Let's say ur wearing a rep if got exposed r u going to say that the watch is a gen piece? Bcos myself own a gen 116613 lb as well n so coincidence I spotted one of my frenz wearing a rep. Ending up himself oso paiseh when I found out his is a rep.

[Great123]

In the 80s and 90s, people like to customise their watches, back then gold prices are not that high, non OEM 18k gold case and bracelet, 18k full diamond dial and bracelet, diamond bezel flood the markey, For those steel casing, they swap to gold case and look like star king, rolex king, movt is real. This is the best part of rolex watch, customising to your taste, now gold price hit rocket high and less of these products flood the market. Bezel insert and sport model dial can also be purchased in the 2nd hand market easily back then. What I can say about replica is, you are buying a design that you like, and most importantly you are happy with it, hopefully one day, got money get real one.

[glennyuen]

5 vital points for Sub TT

1.) Genuine TT gold bracelet links are in full gold ( that means all corners including the side and hidden areas are literately , gold )

2.) White gold ring around minute markers are always thicker on Reps. , while on Gens, only 12', 6' and 9' are thicker

3.) All letter "A" on dial are 'Flatted top' on Gen

4.) When Turning the Crown clockwise, the min Hands of Gen 3135 movt will rotate clockwise as the crown, Whereas ETA will rotate anti-clockwise.

5.) Solid end Link on REPs can NEVER fit between their the Lugs perfectly without any slightest gaps as the Gens do.


hope above helps

Glenn

[oxycon]

Hi Folks,

There is something in my mind that I cannot get an answer, I hope any senior/expert/dealers can give me an answer.

As above the title, What is the real differences between Authentic Rolex Sub VS Grade "A" Swiss Replicas? Especially those Two Tone subs?

Personally, I own few Rolex & Submariners, but there is a 16613 TT Sub, I actually purchase 2nd hand from a shop in Chinatown at 8k plus, well that was a yr ago. As per normal I send in for verification and turn out fine.

In recent, I read that Grade A Swiss made replica are exactly the same in all details and movements within our naked eyes.

What is the real difference from those Swiss Replicas and a real deal?

It piss me off when we purchase watches that are easily 5-15k and there are those that are few hundreds and no differences...

I appreciate some constructive responses. thank you.

Bro u know in your heart what you got is the real deal. thats all that matter. like why ppl buy WG president or sport model even though look like S/S at times? cos they know they got the real deal.