Looking for my first Rolex 16013

[lemuellau]

Hey all,

I'm VERY NEW to Rolex. I don't know what are the different 'options' on a watch for a certain series. There seem to be so many! Different dials, numbering format, pin hole, no pin hole? Does any of these affect the price of a watch?

I'm looking to buy my first Rolex, a dress watch, probably a DJ 16013 as a year end present for myself . ANYBODY SELLING A DJ 16013? Like the look of a vintage time piece. Been searching the forum and saw some from joeyqu69. Is he/she a reliable seller? Also what price range should I be looking at? What should I look out for?

I've been reading on other forums that when a seller says Jubilee bracelet, it usually means it is not an original Rolex Jubilee bracelet. Is this true? I've also read that many of these old watches have been modded with non rolex parts. Is this true? At the end of the day, I don't want to buy a lemon or a 1/2 rolex.

Advice greatly appreciated!

[taxico]

when we talk about the "older" datejusts, they're categorized (imo) into 3 basic categories and with usually 3 classic bezels:

the 1570, 3035 and 3135 based categories.

the 1570 are the slow beat and really reliable ones, usually identifiable by a pie pan dial.

the 3035 are the first high (28.8k) beat movements produced by rolex. some people like them, some people don't. they were not produced for a long time compared to the 1570 and 3135.

the 3135 is basically the improved version of the 3035 (full bridge, etc) and is still used in modern models today (with a few additional upgrades, paraXXX).

the 3 bezel options are smooth, fluted and engine turned (and later domed, 116xxx, not applicable in your case).

google will turn up these options, with smooth and engine turned bezels usually made in stainless steel, and jubilee in gold.

the pin hole-less models will be equipped with 3135 movements and have sapphire crystals.

3035 and 1570 datejusts have acrylic crystals, but after market sapphire "upgrades" are available. proceed with caution.

jubilee bracelets can be aftermarket, but the clasp, if fake, should be easily identifiable. flush fit end links are also easy to identify for collectors/trained watch makers.

when in doubt, ask for advice. if you worry about fake/OEM/inferior parts in the watch, pay for your watch to be appraised/authenticated.

when it comes to vintage watches, be careful of pitting in places you cannot easily see. this is less of a problem for watches made after 1988/89 (R-series onwards).

this pitting may affect your watch's water resistance. an oyster case that cannot keep water out is useless.

but probably the thing you should watch out for are refinished/aged dials which will reduce the value of the watch. also many datejusts have had their bezels swopped... head to oysterinfo (dot) de to check what the digit in each model number means.

for rolex watches, condition is always relative to the value. but some sellers may hold a watch that is in poor condition and they may perhaps over value their watch because they see other similar models going for $xxxx.

datejusts are plentiful in singapore. shop around and get the best one you can afford!