New watch, power reserved, did not meet requirement

[Shaun23]

Just gotten mine first new Oyster Perpeutal and the power reserved was like 36 hrs only.
Was told could reached almost 72 hrs.
Wore 2 times and sent to RSC for servcing which need 2 weeks.
Very disappointed..haizz..

Rolex also spelled out that their watch precision/accurary is +/- 2 seconds on daily run.
When i visited. they have a special machine to test which takes about a minute to run with print out. Then they will tell you is time for servicing..i mean when purchased the new watch, who actaully go and verify ?
Maybe can we go back to them for verificaton say yearly before warranty end ?
What is your view..

[geoteow]

Just gotten mine first new Oyster Perpeutal and the power reserved was like 36 hrs only.
Was told could reached almost 72 hrs.
Wore 2 times and sent to RSC for servcing which need 2 weeks.
Very disappointed..haizz..

Rolex also spelled out that their watch precision/accurary is +/- 2 seconds on daily run.
When i visited. they have a special machine to test which takes about a minute to run with print out. Then they will tell you is time for servicing..i mean when purchased the new watch, who actaully go and verify ?
Maybe can we go back to them for verificaton say yearly before warranty end ?
What is your view..

U need to wind until the spring slip to test the full reserve power. Give it 50 full turn.

[Shaun23]

U need to wind until the spring slip to test the full reserve power. Give it 50 full turn.

I wore almost 12 hrs. Was told 8 hrs should be good enough to gauge the power reserved.

[Oceanklassik]

Disappointing .. sometimes really heng-suay one. Most important now is the after-sales service assurance.

[geoteow]

I wore almost 12 hrs. Was told 8 hrs should be good enough to gauge the power reserved.

Hi Shaun, i do not think wore 12hrs is enough to achieve full reserve power of 72hrs. Just give it a 50 turn on crown to test. U will feel the spring slip after u fully wound the watch. Otherwise if the watch stopped give it 25 to 30 full turns on crown until second hand moves and wear it. It think if 30 full turns might give u 36hrs just an estimation. Cheers.

[r3kahsttub]

Even if you wear for 12 hours, if you do not move your wrist much, the watch doesn't power up. Safest and best way is to wind the crown to full power reserve and then leave it to see how long before she winds down. Rolex is pretty bullet proof, do let us know how it goes :-)

[Shaun23]

I was told 8 hrs should be good enough by the Rolex service staff.
Today went down to collect and they told me watch has been rectified by doing some calibration.
Tomorrow will wear a day and monitor again.
Thanks Guys.

[Shaun23]

Previously the technical manager told me to wear at least 8 hrs will able to hit 48 hrs power reserve.

Another lady at RSC told me the technician said must wear 5 days during working hours in order to have 48 hrs power reserve after i dropped by. I felt very stupid of her and techincian to put such statement.

Who in the RSC can advise me corectly or can i email to HQ to ask how power reserve work actually.

[kennethTanTan]

😂😂😂

[Oceanklassik]

Previously the technical manager told me to wear at least 8 hrs will able to hit 48 hrs power reserve.

Another lady at RSC told me the technician said must wear 5 days during working hours in order to have 48 hrs power reserve after i dropped by. I felt very stupid of her and techincian to put such statement.

Who in the RSC can advise me corectly or can i email to HQ to ask how power reserve work actually.

I think, let's not rely on them too much for an accurate answer. I would think it depends very much on how you wear your watch (habits, lifestyle, etc), and the type of movement of the watch. One sure way is to wind up your watch fully and leave it somewhere safe. Then observe how many hours it takes for it to come to a complete stop.

I am one 'watch freak' who do such tests in varying ways for most of my manual and automatic watches. Maybe it's a hobby I acquire over time, or a 'bad habit' depends how you see it. Using very basic and manually-taxing method, I will record my watches each time I wear them, or just manually winding them up and not wearing them to see:

- How accurate the movement is;
- How much power reserve (PR) there is; and
- How accurate the time is kept as claimed by the manufacturer.

I have to qualify first that my method may not be the most accurate but here's what I do:

For preparation to wear the watch
1. When watch is completely stopped, I adjust the time (say for example at 6am).
2. Thereafter, I give it a 20 wounds to start the movement ticking.
3. Say I start to put it on my wrist to head out to work, I record it down - "Wear at 7am".
4. During this, I will also record down the exact seconds to monitor seconds gain/loss over this
period of wear.
5. I'll just wear the watch to work as per normal, going around my routine chores.
6. Once I return home and take out my watch, I'll record down - "Stop wear at 7pm".
7. During which, I will record down the seconds gain/loss, since I started to wear it.
8. I'll then leave the watch to run on its own without wearing it until it stops.
9. Periodically, I'll con't to record down the seconds gain/loss.
10. Once it stops, I'll record down the timing and calculate the duration of wear and how long it
takes for the time to stop, after I stopped wearing it.
11. Then I'll be able to calculate and determine how accurate/inaccurate a particular watch is and
how long is the PR.

For preparation to wind up the watch (not wearing)
1. When watch is completely stopped, I adjust the time and give it a
specific no. of winds (e.g. 30 wounds for first attempt).
2. I then make a record of it - "Wind 30 on 1st November @6am".
3. During this, I will also record down the exact seconds to monitor
seconds gain/loss over this period of wear.
4. I'll then leave the watch to run on its own and at various timings,
put it on different positions.
5. Periodically, I'll record down the seconds gain/loss until it stops.
6. Once it stops, I'll record down the timing and calculate how long it
takes for the time to stop.
7. I'll then calculate and determine how accurate/inaccurate that
particular watch is and how long is the PR, using different nos. of
winds - from 20 to 40 winds, depending on what type of movement.

I have been doing this for several years and I'm surprised how some less expensive movements (ETA) and brands are even more accurate than the more expensive and higher end watch brands.

[ahtshun83]

I think, let's not rely on them too much for an accurate answer. I would think it depends very much on how you wear your watch (habits, lifestyle, etc), and the type of movement of the watch. One sure way is to wind up your watch fully and leave it somewhere safe. Then observe how many hours it takes for it to come to a complete stop.

I am one 'watch freak' who do such tests in varying ways for most of my manual and automatic watches. Maybe it's a hobby I acquire over time, or a 'bad habit' depends how you see it. Using very basic and manually-taxing method, I will record my watches each time I wear them, or just manually winding them up and not wearing them to see:

- How accurate the movement is;
- How much power reserve (PR) there is; and
- How accurate the time is kept as claimed by the manufacturer.

I have to qualify first that my method may not be the most accurate but here's what I do:

For preparation to wear the watch
1. When watch is completely stopped, I adjust the time (say for example at 6am).
2. Thereafter, I give it a 20 wounds to start the movement ticking.
3. Say I start to put it on my wrist to head out to work, I record it down - "Wear at 7am".
4. During this, I will also record down the exact seconds to monitor seconds gain/loss over this
period of wear.
5. I'll just wear the watch to work as per normal, going around my routine chores.
6. Once I return home and take out my watch, I'll record down - "Stop wear at 7pm".
7. During which, I will record down the seconds gain/loss, since I started to wear it.
8. I'll then leave the watch to run on its own without wearing it until it stops.
9. Periodically, I'll con't to record down the seconds gain/loss.
10. Once it stops, I'll record down the timing and calculate the duration of wear and how long it
takes for the time to stop, after I stopped wearing it.
11. Then I'll be able to calculate and determine how accurate/inaccurate a particular watch is and
how long is the PR.

For preparation to wind up the watch (not wearing)
1. When watch is completely stopped, I adjust the time and give it a
specific no. of winds (e.g. 30 wounds for first attempt).
2. I then make a record of it - "Wind 30 on 1st November @6am".
3. During this, I will also record down the exact seconds to monitor
seconds gain/loss over this period of wear.
4. I'll then leave the watch to run on its own and at various timings,
put it on different positions.
5. Periodically, I'll record down the seconds gain/loss until it stops.
6. Once it stops, I'll record down the timing and calculate how long it
takes for the time to stop.
7. I'll then calculate and determine how accurate/inaccurate that
particular watch is and how long is the PR, using different nos. of
winds - from 20 to 40 winds, depending on what type of movement.

I have been doing this for several years and I'm surprised how some less expensive movements (ETA) and brands are even more accurate than the more expensive and higher end watch brands.

I'll record down the seconds gain/loss until it stops. - Sorry for asking but do you mind to explain a bit more?

[Shaun23]

I think, let's not rely on them too much for an accurate answer. I would think it depends very much on how you wear your watch (habits, lifestyle, etc), and the type of movement of the watch. One sure way is to wind up your watch fully and leave it somewhere safe. Then observe how many hours it takes for it to come to a complete stop.

I am one 'watch freak' who do such tests in varying ways for most of my manual and automatic watches. Maybe it's a hobby I acquire over time, or a 'bad habit' depends how you see it. Using very basic and manually-taxing method, I will record my watches each time I wear them, or just manually winding them up and not wearing them to see:

- How accurate the movement is;
- How much power reserve (PR) there is; and
- How accurate the time is kept as claimed by the manufacturer.

I have to qualify first that my method may not be the most accurate but here's what I do:

For preparation to wear the watch
1. When watch is completely stopped, I adjust the time (say for example at 6am).
2. Thereafter, I give it a 20 wounds to start the movement ticking.
3. Say I start to put it on my wrist to head out to work, I record it down - "Wear at 7am".
4. During this, I will also record down the exact seconds to monitor seconds gain/loss over this
period of wear.
5. I'll just wear the watch to work as per normal, going around my routine chores.
6. Once I return home and take out my watch, I'll record down - "Stop wear at 7pm".
7. During which, I will record down the seconds gain/loss, since I started to wear it.
8. I'll then leave the watch to run on its own without wearing it until it stops.
9. Periodically, I'll con't to record down the seconds gain/loss.
10. Once it stops, I'll record down the timing and calculate the duration of wear and how long it
takes for the time to stop, after I stopped wearing it.
11. Then I'll be able to calculate and determine how accurate/inaccurate a particular watch is and
how long is the PR.

For preparation to wind up the watch (not wearing)
1. When watch is completely stopped, I adjust the time and give it a
specific no. of winds (e.g. 30 wounds for first attempt).
2. I then make a record of it - "Wind 30 on 1st November @6am".
3. During this, I will also record down the exact seconds to monitor
seconds gain/loss over this period of wear.
4. I'll then leave the watch to run on its own and at various timings,
put it on different positions.
5. Periodically, I'll record down the seconds gain/loss until it stops.
6. Once it stops, I'll record down the timing and calculate how long it
takes for the time to stop.
7. I'll then calculate and determine how accurate/inaccurate that
particular watch is and how long is the PR, using different nos. of
winds - from 20 to 40 winds, depending on what type of movement.

I have been doing this for several years and I'm surprised how some less expensive movements (ETA) and brands are even more accurate than the more expensive and higher end watch brands.

Solid Bro. For second loss and gain, RSC has a set of equipment to check. This set os equipment also estimate the PR by amplitube (which i don't think is incorrect way).

[Oceanklassik]

I'll record down the seconds gain/loss until it stops. - Sorry for asking but do you mind to explain a bit more?

No prob

I would normally use a trusted Casio digital watch to measure/mark the time. For example, once I set the time on the automatic watch against the digital watch - 12:00:01, I would note down the exact timing right down to the seconds and the no. of wounds I give. Say, the automatic watch shows 12:00:01 and likewise, the digital watch shows the same (12:00:01), then I would mark as:

30 Wounds
Date: 1/12/17
Time: 12:00:01 (-) (this "(-)" indicates automatic watch synchronizes same seconds as digital watch)

As the hours go by, say for example after 11 hours, I would check the automatic watch against the digital watch again. This time, there may be some seconds gain/loss, or not at all. Say, there's a gain of 2 seconds, then I would record this:

30 Wounds
Date: 1/12/17
Time: 12:00:01 (-)
23:00:30 (+2) (this "(+2)" indicates that after 11 hours, the automatic watch has gained
2 seconds)

Until the time stops on the automatic watch, my records after calculating the raw data, should show this:

SUBMARINER LV

30 Wounds
- 40h 20m (+5s)

[Note: This means after I gave the Submariner LV 30 winds, I got 40 hours 20 minutes of power reserve and gained 5 seconds over this cycle.]

[Oceanklassik]

Solid Bro. For second loss and gain, RSC has a set of equipment to check. This set os equipment also estimate the PR by amplitube (which i don't think is incorrect way).

Yes, I have been told there's a machine to do this but I am not a professional watch dealer .. I'm just doing it as a hobby and only when I have the time to do it. At least, this gives me some understanding of what some luxury brands claim how accurate their watches are (or not). From my records over the years, some brands are just disappointing in terms of time accuracy.