Originally posted by McLeod
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Jun 2012 Rolex List price (page 124/125)
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Originally posted by McLeod View PostMy bad. What I really meant was that I don't feel like spending $10k+ on a S/Steel model. Gold at least has gold price as indicator, but steel, the value is all in the workmanship and the brand, which are less tangible.Beep Beep!!!!!
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Wow, a lot of questions, let me attempt to answer some of them
14060m and 116610 do not belong to the same generation
14060m should be compared with the 16610
The new 116610 intorduced in 2010 has a number of upgrades which makes the sub looks more modern now
Eg enlarged case, lugs, maxi dial, blue lume, solid clasp, etc
Some prefer the 14060 as it does not come with the cyclops, looks cleaner
Some prefer the cyclops look as it is unique to rolex
Among the 3 models, 14060, 16610, 116610, i would go for the latest model 116610 for the upgraded features
As for the face of a watch, its call the dial
Between a sub and a daytona, i would buy both because both are legendary rolex sports models
If budget is a concern, get the sub first, the sub c now retail at 11,200 and the daytona 15,750
Both with no discount and the daytona almost always with a 1-2k premium
White gold is not platinum, they are different materials
White gold is Au, platinum is Pt (referring to chemical symbols)
Au is more expensive than Pt
Originally posted by McLeod View PostSorry guys, more questions from me....
I am revising my plan and explore the option to get a s/steel sports model for myself.
I see 14060M and 116610 have the same spec except the latter has date display.
In terms of preserving value, which model (with date, without date) is better?
Honestly I prefer a daytona but it is stretching my budget a bit (166520).
BTW in one of the catalogue it shows two versions, one white and one black 'face' (sorry not sure what is the proper term .
I am referring to the background of the display area). Are they differentiated by a suffix or else how to identify them?
between daytona and and submariner s/steel models (those mentioned above), which is better choice ?
One side question. In the PDF datejust 31 catalog from Rolex site, it says "white gold" for 178279 and "platinum" for 178246.
What is the difference in the material (not the design)? I always thought white gold == platinum.
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Thanks all for your advice.
Did some more research on the 'net. Indeed the Daytona S/Steel models depreciates much less than the half gold versions.
Can someone enlighten what is the reasons behind? Is it as simple as there is a high premium when buying a new half gold model?
e.g. I saw a 10yo 116523 asking for $12k-$16 (w/o and w/ cert), in contrary to what my friends been telling me that Rolex will appreciate it's value over time. Ok there might be other reasons that caused the drop in value like scratches but still a surprise to me.
Is the certificate mentioned in the pre-owned ad mean a cert from Rolex after the shop / previous owner has brought the watch for authentication?
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Originally posted by marvick View PostI intend to buy Daytona (116520)
What will be the price now?Beep Beep!!!!!
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Found this link by google search http://www.ginault.com/Rolex/Rolex-Price-List-2011.html which shows the price list for most, if not all rolex models for 2011 (in USD) as well as 2010 (in EUR), but 2012 prices are not readily available online though.
Rolex owner since 2010
Previously owned:
Explorer II(216570) black dial AN serial
GMT-Master II(116710LN) AN serial
Current collection:
Datejust 36(116234) V serial
GMT-Master II(116713LN) AN serial
Upcoming/Wishlist:
"Hulk" green sub(116610LV)
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