Review: Luminor GMT 1950 3 Days Automatic (PAM 320)

[skydweller_sg]

Foreword

When I first gathered interest in Panerai, it was because of two features - the inhouse Panerai movement and the 1950 case, that was back in 2010. Prior to that, I used to shun away from Panerai because they were largely using ETA movement as their base calibers, even though Panerai modify and decorate these as 'OP' movements, they are still considered hybrids...

[skydweller_sg]

But now things with Panerai have changed

Among the many almost identical looking models with the 1950 case and an inhouse movement, I was particularly attracted to the PAM 320 - Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic. Reason being under the simple unpretentious dial presentation lies a bundle of really interesting complications that makes the watch so much more functional than other brands in the same tier at the same price range. The PAM320, at the time of this review (Jan 2013), retails at SG$12,600 at the Panerai boutique.



the PAM 320


The movement in the PAM 320 is the P9001 caliber, designed and made entirely inhouse by Panerai. Although not COSC certified, the movement is very accurate, well within the COSC requirements of +6/-4seconds per day. I have heard some horror stories in the early batch of this new movement (back in 2009, as well as the P9000 in the PAM 312); mostly pertaining to the watch running fast; however, my watch has been keeping good time thus far (+2seconds per day), and is performing on par, if not better, compared with my other watches that are COSC-certified



the P9001 movement


Apart from the usual date function, the P9001 actually includes a bundle of really cool complications, most notable is the GMT dual time function, which enables the watch to keep dual time. The GMT hand runs 12hour per cycle like the hour hand, hence you could actually hide it behind the hour hand to make the 320 look like the 312.



GMT hand hidden behind hour hand


Other complications include the quick second-hand reset and the power reserve indicator. The quick second reset kicks in when the crown is pulled to the outermost third position - it saves the trouble of waiting for the second-hand to reach the 12oclock position before 'hacking' the movement to a halt for time-setting. You could actually see the sword jump right back to 12oclock position when the crown is pulled to the third position - quite nice!

The power reserve indicator, on the other hand, is a really useful feature - the black bar on the movement turns slightly red when the power reserve drops from the full 3days' reserve (ie 72hours) to about 1/3, which is around 24hours. As the power reserve continues to drop, more red is displayed - signalling a need to manual wind the watch. However, I almost never had to rely on the indicator to wind the watch, as the 3days reserve is more than sufficient to keep the watch running continuously, so long as wrist time is about 8hours a day. This is possible because the P9001 uses two barrels - as the watch is wound, the mainspring power is stored in both barrels, hence extending the reserve from the usual 2days (~40+ hours) on most automatic watches at this price range to 3days (~70+ hours)



the power reserve indicator with at least 24hr of reserve


Pulling the crown to the second position (ie the middle position) allows the quick adjustment of the hour hand - this also allows the date to be adjusted.

Apart from a nice inhouse movement packed with interesting complications, what also struck me on the PAM320 is the simplicity of the Panerai dial – simple is beautiful - the dial is matt black, clean and uncluttered. The printed literature, though minimal, is very sharp and refined. It reads "LUMINOR GMT - PANERAI"... less is definitely more for this one. I also like the fact that the 320 has a sandwich dial - gives the presentation a layered and sophisticated feel. Even with the GMT hand showing, the dial remains simple because it is a 12-hour GMT hand and hence does not need additional 24hours markings; most other GMTs use a 24-hour hand which requires 24-hour markings on the dial.

The 1950 case is simply gorgeous - brushed all around except for the bezel, which is polished. This combination of brushed case and polished bezel makes it a nice contrast that draws attention from onlookers even from far. The contours and finishing of the 1950 case is amazing. Photos doesnt do justice to the quality of finishing - you have to see and feel one to appreciate the level of details here.



contours on the 1950 case


The 1950 case also features the quick strap change system, which is very convenient to use. Scratches on the case is a thing of the past with this system - you simply press the button on the back of the lug and simultaneously push out the strap pin. Putting it back together is equally simple – just make sure you put the pin in the right way so that the groove side of the pin locks into the locking mechanism. One unique thing about Panerai is its ability to appear dressy and casual via strap changes - put a black gator strap with white stitch for the dressy look; swap this with a tan ammo strap and you instantly transform it into a rugged looking watch



320 on gator strap



320 on ammo strap


The watch comes with the standard Panerai items - pearwood presentation box, bezel protector, strap change tools, a dark brown crocodile strap with a tang buckle, a spare rubber strap, instruction booklet and warranty booklet. Nice stuff.





Overall, the PAM320 is a very well-made, unique iconic watch with a classic and timeless design that is typical of Panerai - It is further characterized by the enduring appeal of the Panerai 1950 Luminor case - a fusion of modern and vintage look

Considering the GMT, 3days power reserve and its indicator, quick second reset, quick hour hand setting, and an in-house automatic movement, I am not sure if any other luxury brand of the same tier could offer as much watch at the same price as the PAM 320.

[skydweller_sg]

Some technical details of the PAM 320 (extracted from Panerai.com)

MOVEMENT

Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9001 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 29 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days with indicator on the back, two barrels, seconds reset device. 229 components.


FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, second time zone, power reserve indicator on the back, seconds reset.


CASE

Diameter 44 mm, AISI 316L brushed steel.

AISI 316L 1.4435 stainless steel is Officine Panerai’s material par excellence since it is highly resistant to corrosion and is hypoallergenic, making it ideal for contact with the skin.

The Panerai watches created for the Italian Navy were made of austenitic stainless steel, a reliable material that was also resistant to the extreme environmental conditions in which the commandos operated. AISI 316L, a specification of the American Iron and Steel Institute, is an austenitic stainless steel alloy with a chromium content of 16–18%, 11–14% nickel and 2–3% molybdenum.

Officine Panerai uses the low-carbon variant of this alloy: the lower carbon content of the steel improves its welding qualities where the metal’s thickness is 6mm or less. The excellent technical qualities of this material make it an essential element of every new Officine Panerai collection.


BEZEL

Polished steel.


BACK

See-through sapphire crystal.


DEVICE PROTECTING THE CROWN

(registered trademark) Brushed steel.


DIAL

Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.


CRYSTAL

Sapphire, formed of corundum, 2.6 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.


STRAP

PANERAI personalised brown alligator strap and large-size brushed steel buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool for changing the strap and a steel screwdriver.


WATER-RESISTANCE

30 bar (~300 metres).


fish logo - 300m

This makes the PAM 320 a diving watch as well !

[Otar]

excellent review! i love the 1950 casing also.

[BAR_Honda]

Very good review! I am surprise it has the quick second-hand reset function.
I wonder does the Pam 312 has this too? since the P9001 is a variation of the base P9000 movement?

[skydweller_sg]

doubt so... extracted this from Panerai.com

"The P.9001 is a variant of the P.9000 automatic calibre with several additional features: GMT, or rather a second time zone, indicated by a central hand, seconds reset and power reserve indicator on the case back."

Very good review! I am surprise it has the quick second-hand reset function.
I wonder does the Pam 312 has this too? since the P9001 is a variation of the base P9000 movement?

[roguehog]

Welcome to club 320.

[shuseido]

Nice review!

How I wish the 312 has the quick second reset feature too!

[hotdog1188]

nice review....my vote for the 321 heheh

[pmun]

nice review... got me keen on getting a 320 when the budget allows

[spartan0690]

Hi Skydweller

Great review and thks for the efforts.
Have a question. Thks in advance.
I have a O pam320.
The individual number starts with SM, instead of the usual BB.
I have been asked, but, has no answer.
Can you help?
Rdgs

[skydweller_sg]

BBxxxxxx refers to the serial number system which was started in 1997 with 6 digits - eg a 1997 case will be BB97xxxx
now the BB series has run to 7 digits
other prefix besides BB include PB, SM and OL, which according to some, refers to the supplier of the case*

*the panerai service center staff couldnt explain the meaning of the prefix, hence i was unable to verify this

is your SM followed by 6 or 7 digits?

Hi Skydweller

Great review and thks for the efforts.
Have a question. Thks in advance.
I have a O pam320.
The individual number starts with SM, instead of the usual BB.
I have been asked, but, has no answer.
Can you help?
Rdgs

[spartan0690]

Hi

Thks for the info.
It has 7 numbers.
Cheer!

[spartan0690]

Hi

Thks for the infos.
There are 7 digits following my SM number.
Any difference 6/7 digits
Cheers

[GabberZapper]

nice comprehensive review!
very informative and covers all the important points.
it's an exquisite watch.
droolzzz