DIRECTORY: Watches A-Z

[Oceanklassik]

Hi,

I am creating this thread on my own accord, to contribute to this wonderful forum, and will be typing about 90 over watch brands. I will need some days to do it and I hope that you DO NOT post anything here first, until I have finished at 'Z'. I hope that this information will aid the many watch lovers here, the ease of finding quick, relevant and bite-size information on various watch brands.

Again pl, allow me to finish before posting. Appreciate it!

[Oceanklassik]

A

A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

A.LANGE & SOHNE (lahng-er oond ser-ner)

Who Are They: German company founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845 in Glashutte, Germany, which ceased operations during World War II and under Communist rule. Business resumed in 1990 under the helm of Walter Lange, the founder's great-grandson.

Claim To Fame: Famed for its pocket watches, like the Kaiser William (1898) and Centennial Tourbillon (1900), the brand saw a revival with its recent watches, the Lange 1, Tourbillon Pour le Merite, Saxonia and Arkade, all made at its manufacture in Germany.

What's Hot: The Homage to F.A. Lange Collection's three exceptional timepieces - the Tourbograph Pour le Merite, Lange 1 Tourbillon with stop seconds and 1815 Moonphase.


ALAN SILBERSTEIN (a-lang sil-ber-steen)

Who Are They: In the late 1980s, Silberstein, a Parisian interior architect and designer, started his watchmaking company in the city of Besancon, near the border with Switzerland. With four watchmakers and 15 assistants, he designs and produces only about 1,000 watches a year.

Claim To Fame: Renowned for fun, colourful pieces, this "watch-architect" has also produced tourbillons, perpetual calendars, chronographs. jewellery and "art watches".

What's Hot: The Steampunk collection of chronographs, and the One-Hand watch with a hand that makes one rotation of the dial every 12 hours.


ANONIMO

Who Are They: Founded in 1997 in Florence, Italy, by designer and entrepreneur Federico Massacesi to continue the tradition of Tuscan watchmaking, it is reputed to have the highest standards for handcrafting watches in Italy.

Claim To Fame: Watches with all-mechanical movements housed in Italian stainless steel - a blend of tradition and innovation. The brand is known for its large watch cases and Kodiak (waterproof) leather straps.

What's Hot: The Cronoscopia Mark II, Firenze Dual Time, Nocturnale and San Marco models with matte black steel cases.


AUDEMARS PIGUET (oh-de-mah pee-gay)

Who Are They: Founded by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-August Piguet in 1875, the Swiss watch brand is traditional yet bold.

Claim To Fame: In 1972, Audemars Piguet created its Royal Oak series, the first high-end sports watch made of steel. Always at the forefront of innovation, it has won several awards - most recently in 2006 for the avant-garde Millenary collection showcasing an off-centre dial with a 3-D display.

What's Hot: The super-slim Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar, whose 2.45mm-thick movement is the world's thinnest automatic, the Millenary Carbon One Tourbillon Chrono, with a carbon nanofibre case, and the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chrono, whose movement combines a tourbillon, column-wheel chronograph and double barrel.


AZIMUTH WATCH COMPANY

Who Are They: Set up by Singaporean Alvin Lye and Christopher Long in 2003, the brand creates complicated watches in avant-garde designs. All its timepieces are produced in Switzerland and sold around the world.

Claim To Fame: Its signature collections include the utilitarian Militaire-1 series and industrial-looking Mecha-1 BMF. Other noteworthy timepieces include Mr Roboto, a watch inspired by a 1950s tin toy. Launched in 2008, it was awarded one of the Top 10 most unique watch designs in Japan.

What's Hot: The Xtreme-1 collection of three titanium models for extreme sports enthusiasts - the Sea Hum GMT, the Sea Hum 3TZ (time zone watch) and Deep Diver, which is water-resistant to 2,000m.

[Oceanklassik]

B

A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

BALL WATCH

Who Are They: Founded by American Webster Clay Ball in 1891. He was the first jeweller to use time signals to produce accurate time for his hometown in Cleveland.

Claim To Fame: Ball Watch was credited with installing a standard timing system for the railroads in the US, Canada and Mexico. In line with its motto, "accuracy under adverse conditions", Ball Watch timepieces include features like anti-magnetic, cold temperature endurance, shock-resistance and crown protection. The Ball Watch TMT movement uses the spiral bimetallic thermometer, which measures temperature with greater accuracy. Its watches are made in the US.

What's Hot: The Engineer Master II Diver Worldtime with the automatic Ball Calibre 965, the world's first day/date worldtime movement.


BAUME & MERCIER

Who Are They: Formed in 1830 by Louis Victor and Pierre Joseph Celestin Baume, the company got its name from its third-generation owners (1920), following an alliance with jeweller and watchmaker Paul Mercier. The watches are made in Switzerland.

Claim To Fame: The dodecagonal (12-sided) case of the Riviera (1973) revolutionised watch aesthetics, while the brand's iconic Hampton, with a slightly curved case, hugged the wrist more comfortably.

What's Hot: The Classima Executives XL watch with visible oscillating balance.


BEDAT & CO

Who Are They: Business graduate and ex-Raymond Weil head designer Christian Bedat and his mother, Simone, founded the brand in 1996, and presented their first collections at the BaselWorld watch fair in 1997. Their collections No. 3, No. 7, Ref. 304 and Ref. 314 became instant successes and are still bestsellers today. In 2000, the Gucci Group acquired the company.

Claim To Fame: The distinctive look of their Swiss-made collections, The No. 3 features on elegant tonneau-shaped case, waisted at 6 and 12 o'clock and interpreted in various sizes. The rectangular lines of No. 7, waisted at 3 and 9 o'clock, are softened by the subtly-rounded curves on certain models. No. 1 is square-shaped and waisted at 3 and 9 o'clock. No. 8 is based on a circle-in-a-cushion shape that lends a contemporary touch to the watches.

What's Hot: The new 26.5mm-and-36.5mm-diameter No. 2 watches with double-ellipse cases, some with diamond pave.


BELL & ROSS

Who Are They: Formed in 1992 to produce watches for professional use (to withstand extreme conditions, like in space or in flight). The watches, created by leading scientists of the time, are used by astronauts, bomb disposal experts, divers and pilots.

Claim To Fame: A team of watchmakers, engineers, designers and professionals gather at its manufacturing unit in the Chaux-de-Fonds, Siwtzerland, to research and manufacture each utilitarian timepiece. The watches are designed to meet four criteria: Readability, performance, precision and water-resistance.

What's Hot: The BR 03-92 Military Ceramic with ceramic case, and all-block BR-01 radar that looks like a radar screen with coloured bars.


BERTOLUCCI (bear-toe-loo-chee)

Who Are They: Established in 1987 in Switzerland by Italian-born Remo Bertolucci, the brand enjoyed great success until an unfortunate tragedy forced the family to sell the company to the Dickson Group in 2005.

Claim To Fame: The brand marries Italian flair and Swiss watchmaking according to four core values - creativity, curves, comfort and construction.

What's Hot: The Giro All Black in PVD-coated steel, and Bella Costa unisex sporty watches with black and orange silicon straps.


BLANCPAIN (blahnk-pung)

Who Are They: Established in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, the Swiss manufacture has stated that it will never produce quartz watches or those with digital displays.

Claim To Fame: Created the first modern diving watch, the Fifty Fathoms, in 1953. Also, the 1735 Grand Complication featuring a tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and split chrono.

What's Hot: The new Fifty Fathoms diver's watch with patented under-lug correctors and Villeret pocket watch with vintage-look grand feu enamel dial.


BLU

Who Are They: Founded in 2000 by Bernhard Lederer, a clockmaker and watchmaker with more than 25 years' experience, who specialises in high watchmaking. BLU is the acronym for Bernhard Lederer Universe.

Claim To Fame: Unusual, daringly designed 3-D watches that display time in a navel way, like with rotating disks or discreet hands. The dials of watches in the Galaxy and Planets series look like planets orbiting in space.

What's Hot: The ever-classic Galaxy watches feature dials made of aventurine. Three discs sets with six diamonds rotate at different speeds to tell the hours, minutes and seconds.


BOUCHERON

Who Are They: The French high jewellery house was founded by Frederic Boucheron in Paris in 1858. Through the years, its jewellery has been a favourite with royalty, including Queen Elizabeth, and movie stars from Greta Garbo to Nicole Kidman. It produces elegant women's jewellery and men's watches.

Claim To Fame: In 2007, the house began collaborating with Girard-Perregaux to produce high-end watches using GP movements. The tie-up has yielded the Ronde automatic watches, Ronde and Caree jewellery watches and limited-edition MEC Jungle watches.

What's Hot: The stunning one-only Ladyhawke Tourbillon, featuring Girard-Perregaux's famous tourbillon with three gold bridges, and the bejewelled Crazy Ma Jolie.


BOVET (boh-vay)

Who Are They: Best known as the Swiss who penetrated China with his exquisite art-inspired timepieces, Edouard Bovet first arrived in Canton in 1818 and sold four watches for 10,000 francs (about US$1 million today).

Claim To Fame: Bovet stayed on in China to establish a watch dynasty that lasted more than 80 years. His timepieces, with their seconds hands, exotic artwork and transparent backs that reveal open work movement, earned him fame throughout Asia, the Middle East and America.

What's Hot: Fleurier (adaptation of the pocket watch), Sportster (chronograph or triple-date movement) and Complications series (including butterfly tourbillon).


BREGUET (bray-gay)

Who Are They: Abraham Louis Breguet established the company in Switzerland in 1775, making it one of the oldest watch companies in the world.

Claim To Fame: Invented the first self-winding watch, Perpetuelle, in 1780, and the Parachute, an anti-shock device, in 1790. Made a remarkable achievement in 1801, when the founder pioneered the tourbillon, a watch-regulating device that compensates for errors caused by the Earth's gravitational force. Loyal fans included King Louis XVI and Napolean Bonaparte.

What's Hot: The Reine de Naples automatic strike, the brand's first complication for women. The egg-shaped movement automatically marks each hour with two chimes repeated thrice.


BREITLING (bright-ling)

Who Are They: Founded in St-Irnier, Switzerland, by Leon Breitling in 1884, it specialises in manufacturing chronographs and precision counters for aviation use.

Claim To Fame: The Swiss manufacture's 1942 Navitimer - the first watch fitted with a circular slide-rule bezel (used in aviation for precision) - became the official watch of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, founded in the US in 1939. US astronaut Scott Carpenter wore the Navitimer 24-hour model 806 to space. In 1957, Breitling launched the Superocean series for professional divers.

What's Hot: The new Superocean diver's watch in steel, water-resistant to 1,500m.


BVLGARI

Who Are They: Founded by Sotirio Bulgari in 1884 in Rome. Although he was Greek, Bulgari embraced Roman culture, which accounts for the brand's unique blend of style. The house specialised in jewellery making until the 1980s, when it diversified its product range to include watches, leather goods, ties, etc. Its watches are made by specialised watchmakers in Switzerland.

Claim To Fame: The iconic Bulgari Bulgari watch, featuring a double logo engraved on its bezel.

What's Hot: Its Bulgari, Daniel Roth and Bulgari, Gerald Genta collections integrating the aesthetics and technical know-how of the two independent brands with its own. For women, the new Serpenti watches with signature tubogas bracelet.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

CARL F. BUCHERER (boo-ker-rer)

Who Are They: An independent watch brand founded in 1888 by entrepreneur Carl F. Bucherer and his wife in Lucerne, Switzerland, where the brand still produces its timepieces.

Claim To Fame: In 1971, it produced the Archimedes Super Compressor, a large diving watch with a water resistance of 200m and a world-time mechanism.

What's Hot: The EvoTec PowerReserve and the women's version of the Patravi EvoTec BigDate, both powered by the in-house CFB A1000 movement.


CARTIER

Who Are They: Founded in 1847 in Paris by Louis-Francois Cartier, whose sons took over the business at the turn of the 20th century and opened branches in London (1902) and New York (1909). Proclaimed the "Jeweller of Kings and King of Jewellers" by King Edward VII, who appointed Cartier as the first supplier to the royal court of England in 1904.

Claim To Fame: Classic timepiece include the Santos (1904), Baignoire (1957), Tanl (1919) and Pasha (1985).

What's Hot: The oversized Captive de Cartier women's jewellery watch, and the Pasha 42 de Cartier high jewellery watch with a skeleton dial in the shape of a panther's face.


CHANEL

Who Are They: Founded in 1910 by Gabrielie "Coco" Chanel, who revolutionised haute couture and women's fashion with modern, simplified designs like the skirt suit that borrowed influences from menswear.

Claim To Fame: In 2000, Chanel launched its new J12 line of watches. Made of high-tech ceramic, the unisex watches fuse masculine and feminine elements. From 2005, the J12 has displayed fine watchmaking with tourbillon and GMT watches as well as high jewellery models.

What's Hot: The J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse Tourbillon, with its unique backward-moving minute hand, and J12 Marine diver's watch, with a ceramic-and-steel case water-resistant to 300m.


CHAUMET (show-may)

Who Are They: Founded in 1780 by Marie-Etienne Nitot, who rose to fame after being appointed the official jeweller to Emperor Napolean Bonaparte, Nitot designed the emperor's sword, and tiaras and jewellery for Empress Josephine and Marie-Louise. In 1875, Joseph Chaumet married the daughter of the head of the jewellery house and renamed it Chaumet.

Claim To Fame: Over the last two centuries, Chaumet's designs have led the way. In particular, its art nouveau designs of flora and fauna during the 1800s to 1900s. In 1995, it launched its first Swiss-made watch collection, Khesis.

What's Hot: A contemporary black titanium and white gold watch with the TM 01 tourbillon movement created by top watch designer Marc Alfieri.


CHOPARD (sho-par)

Who Are They: In 1860, Louis-Ulysse Chopard set up L.U.C in the Swiss town of Jura. A century later, in 1963, his grandson, Paul-Andre Chopard, sold the company to Karl Schuefele, a goldsmith and watchmaker.

Claim To Fame: In 1978, the Happy Diamonds watch featuring moving diamonds on the dial was launched, and it became the brand's iconic model. In 1997, its first men's L.U.C 1860 watch, fitted with the Calibre 1.96, was named Watch of the Year by Swiss magazine Montres Passion.

What's Hot: The L.U.C Louis-Ulysse - The Tribute, a pocket watch-cum-wristwatch with a vintage-look dial, and the racing-inspired tL.U.C Engine One Tourbillon, whose hand-wound movement is mounted on shock-absorbing blocks, like a racing car's engine.


CHRONOSWISS

Who Are They: Based in Munich, the German watch manufacturer was founded by Gerd-R. Lang in 1981.

Claim To Fame: In 1982, it introduced the world's first mechanical chronograph with a moonphase display and mineral crystal back. Signature characteristics: Screwed and chanelled bezel, onion-shaped crown and screwed strap lugs. Among its iconic pieces is the award-winning Opus, the first skeletonised watch with visible wheels and open barrels. Other achievements include the 1987 Regulatuer hand-wound wristwatch, the first serially manufactured wristwatch with a regular-type dial, and the 1992 Rattrapante split-second chronograph. Its 2001 Tourbillon regulator also garnered many international awards.

What's Hot: Its Timemaster Chronograph GMT in steel coated with black ultra-hard DLC, and vintage-look 43mm Pacific watches.


CONCORD

Who Are They: Founded in 1908 in Biel, Switzerland, Concord was established with the American market in mind.

Claim To Fame: In 1979, the Swiss company launched Delirium I, the flattest analogue watch ever at 1.98mm thick. It was followed by Delirium II (1.5mm) and Delirium III. In 1980, the Concord Mariner featured a breakthrough design that merged the functionality of a sports watch with the refinement of a dress watch.

What's Hot: The C1 Chronograph Code, with maths formulas etched on the sapphire crystal, and black PVD-coated C1 MecaTech chronograph.


CORUM

Who Are They: Founded in 1955 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, by Gaston Ries and his nephew, Rene Bannwart.

Claim To Fame: In 1980, Corum unveiled its Golden Bridge watch featuring a hand-engraved baguette-shaped movement visible through a transparent sapphire casing. The vertically-positioned and remarkably slim movement was the first of its kind, and impressed with its tiny size and accuracy.

What's Hot: The Miss Golden Bridge, a women's version of its iconic watch, and two tourbillons - classic Golden Bridge and cutting-edge Ti-Bridge.


CVSTOS

Who Are They: Launched in 2004 by Sassoun Sirmakes and Antonio Terranova, the brand has made a name for itself with its avant-garde and technically-charged timepieces.

Claim To Fame: Its key collections include the tonneau-shaped Challenge and round Challenge-R. It shows its technical prowess in a water-resistant tourbillon minute repeater with tonneau-shaped gongs.

What's Hot: The Challenge CRT-S (short for Chronograph Tourbillon Rattrapante-Sport), the first watch with a split seconds chronograph and flying tourbillon.

[Oceanklassik]

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

DANIEL ROTH

Who Are They: Founded in 1989 by renowned watchmaker Daniel Roth, known for his expertise in complications, its handmade Swiss timepieces fall under the Master and Academie lines. In 2000, Daniel Roth was acquired by the Bulgari Group.

Claim To Fame: Developed mechanisms like double-sided tourbillon (1989), the successive indication of 24 time zones in digital form (1999) and a tourbillon with a 200-hour power reserve (2002).

What's Hot: The Bulgari, Daniel Roth integrated collection. (SEE BVLGARI).


DE BETHUNE (der bet-oon)

Who Are They: Established in 2002 by brand consultant David Zanetta and watchmaker Denis Flageollet. The Swiss manufacture produces everything in-house, from cases to dials and hands. It differentiates itself from the competition by creating mechanical timepieces using the latest technology.

Claim To Fame: In 2006, De Bethune introduced the first balance in silicon and platinum with bimetallic compensation for the effects of changing temperature on the balance spring, also made in silicon. Silicon's metallic properties, low mass and elasticity have made possible balance springs with a density 4.5 times lower than that of conventional springs. This results in more accurate readings of time.

What's Hot: Two new timepieces with the brand's latest hand-wound Calibre DB2105s. One has a three-dimensional moonphase display; the other has a dial showing a stars-and-moon night sky.


DE GRISOGONO (der gree-zo-go-no)

Who Are They: De Grisogono was founded in 1995 by Fawaz Gruosi, who made a name for himself with a jewellery collection using black diamonds, which remain the brand's trademark today. In 2000, Gruosi presented his first watch collection, the Instrumento No. Uno.

Claim To Fame: He was the first to produce watches with straps made of shagreen (stingray hide, which has a granular surface) ad blackened steel movements.

What's Hot: The new diamond-studded version of the award-winning Meccanio dG, and the Power Breaker chronograph with Formula 1-inspired dial.


DELANEAU (de lah-no)

Who Are They: An independent Swiss company founded in 1880 that provides its small but loyal clientele with sophisticated, exotic and eccentric jewellery watches. The Geneva-based company produces fewer than 1,500 watches a year. All its watches are for women.

Claim To Fame: Delaneau is famed for its Butterfly watches with colour-coordinated sapphires. Its latest collections consist of five series, each limited to 29 numbered watches, in pink, blue or yellow sapphires, in a combination of any two colours or set with 566 diamonds. For each Butterfly, Delaneau's jewellers match sapphires in five different hues of a single colour, grading them into 12 sizes to create a unique chromatic palette.

What's Hot: Its new automatic Calibre 1608 that displays jumping hours and jumping minutes side-by-side in digital readouts - a watchmaking first.


DEWITT (der-wit)

Who Are They: In 2003, watchmaker and designer Jerome de Witt set up Les Montres Dewitt in Geneva with the aim of advancing watchmaking by creating technically innovative, never-before-seen watches.

Claim To Fame: Over the years, the brand has been pioneering watches with highly original mechanics, like the Pressy Grande Complication in 2003, the Academia Tourbillon Differentiel in 2005 and the Tourbillon Academia Force Constante in 2006.

What's Hot: The Academia Tourbillon Force Constante a Chaine with a chain that relays energy to the power reserve indicator, and the brand's new Twenty-8-Eight collection of more classic designs.


DIOR

Who Are They: Founded by French fashion designer Christian Dior in 1947, who is renowned for creating the voluptuous hourglass silhouette known as The New Look.

Claim To Fame: Today, the brand produces haute couture, ready-to-wear, fine jewellery, accessories and fragrances for both men and women. In 2003, it launched its Swiss watch collections, Simply Dior and Malice.

What's Hot: The Christal Mysterieuse that has a system of six sapphire discs. These create constantly shifting patterns on the dial that also indicate the days, hours and minutes.

[Oceanklassik]

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

EBEL

Who Are They: Founded in 1911 by Eugene Blum and Alice Levy, who used their initials to form the company's name (Eugene Blum Et Levy).

Claim to Fame: In 1935, it became the first Swiss watch company to use the Western Electric System to accurately measure and test rating precision, which meant more accurate time readings.

What's Hot: The Classic Sport range for men and women features three sizes and different dial finishes.


ELLICOTT

Who Are They: Established in the 17th century in London by watchmakers who became famous for their fine pocket watches, the brand was revived in 2008. Headed by Pierre-Andres Finazzi, it is now based in Switzerland.

Claim To Fame: The brand combines the art and ingenuity of English and Swiss watchmaking in its contemporary timepieces, namely the masculine Mach One, the feminine Lady Tuxedo and the high complication Springfield Tourbillon ECW1.

What's Hot: The Majesty watch, a tribute to England's King George III (1738-1820). Its automatic Calibre MG-3 movement incorporates a circumferential rotor.

[Oceanklassik]

F

A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

FENDI

Who Are They: The Italian luxury fashion house was started by Adele Casagrande in 1918 as a fur and leather shop in Rome. The name was adopted when she married Edoardo Fendi in 1925. In addition to furs, ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories and fragrances, Fendi launched its Swiss-made watches in 1985.

Claim To Fame: Designs inspired by its fashion lines, like the Selleria watch (over-stitched leather strap, also used in the Selleria handbag) and Secret watch (sliding case mechanism), with straps in varying shapes to match the seasons.

What's Hot: The Crazy Carats stainless steel watches with indices in red rubies, blue sapphires and multi-coloured topaz. The colours can be changed by turning a second crown.


FRANC VILA (fronk vee-la)

Who Are They: Named after its Spanish-born founder who also designs its exclusive creations, the brand showed its first collection at BaselWorld in 2005. Its debut model was a minute repeater wristwatch, with perpetual calendar and moonphases with a world-premiere slide mechanism inside the case.

Claim To Fame: The brand has a signature figure eight-shaped case housing various complications, such as the FVa No. 6 Superligero Concept, a skeletonised tourbillon.

What's Hot: The FV Evos No 1 "Cobra" Tourbillon Planetaire powered by a flying tourbillon with a new spherical differential system to wind the five-day power reserve.


FRANCK MULLER (fronk moo-ler)

Who Are They: A graduate of the Geneva School of Watchmaking, Franck Muller established his own workshop and created his first tourbillon watch in 1983.

Claim To Fame: Known as "the master of complications", three of his watches have earned the title of Most Complicated Wristwatch in the World - his 1992 chronograph with a 60-minute counter and power reserve, and his 2009 Aeternitas Mega 4 with 36 complications.

What's Hot: The Conquistador Tourbillon Grand Prix incorporating ergal, an ultra-light high-tech alloy, FM 2001 automatic calibre, and new infinity Reka and infinity Safari women's collections.


FREDERIQUE CONSTANT (frer-der-rick cong-stong)

Who Are They: Founded by Constant Stas in 1804, the brand started out making printed clock dials. The current company, based in Geneva, was established in 1988. Peter Stas, the current managing director, is a fourth-generation descendant of the founder.

Claim To Fame: The brand launched its first collection of just six models in 1992. Over the years, it has become known for its affordable watches with up-to-date designs and precision movements.

What's Hot: The F. Chopin 2010 limited edition celebrating the 200th birth anniversary of the famous composer, and the elegant Maxime Manufacture Lady for women.

[Oceanklassik]

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.


GERALD GENTA

Who Are They: Founded in 1969 by Gerald Genta, who's hailed as the most talented haute horology designer of his era, having created iconic models for other brands, such as Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Omega Constellation and Bulgari Bulgari. In 2000, the company was acquired by the Bulgari Group.

Claim To Fame: In 1981, the Swiss watchmaker created an automatic minute repeater, housed in a 2.72mm-thick case. In 1988, he made headlines with the Gefica watch for hunters, a world first. Its movement is housed in a bronze case to prevent glinting and reflection that might alert wild animals.

What's Hot: The Bulgari, Gerald Genta integrated collection. (SEE BVLGARI).


GIRARD-PERREGAUX (zhee-rar pair-uh-go)

Who Are They: Founded in 1791 by Jean-Francois Bautte, who was known for his ultra-thin watch designs. Constant Girard took over the company in the mid-1800s and later married Marie Perregaux, which led to the birth of the name Girard-Perregaux.

Claim To Fame: Constant Girard gained fame as the creator of the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, which won the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889. In 1880, the Swiss watchmaker introduced the wristwatch and was awarded the first major contract to produce 2,000 watches for the German Imperial Navy. In 1965, Girard-Perreguax developed and manufactured the first high-frequency mechanical movement, and in 1969, its quartz movement with a frequency of 32,768 hertz became the universal standard for quartz watches.

What's Hot: A larger 41mm version of its iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, and the Laureato quartz watch to celebrate the 40th anniversary of its first quartz watch, also the first Swiss-made one.


GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL (glass-hoo-ter)

Who Are They: German watch manufacture named after the town of Glashutte in Saxony, Germany. Founded in 1845, by Lange. Assmann, Schneider and Grossmann.

Claim To Fame: In 1995, it launched the Julius Assmann Edition I to celebrate its 150th anniversary. Featuring a "flying" tourbillon, the limited edition was a sell-out. In subsequent years, the Julius Assmann 2, 3 and 4 were produced. Its award-winning creations include the PanoMatic Chronograph, which was awarded the Saxony State prize for design and the German readers' award for Watch of the year 2005.

What's Hot: The PanoInverse XL, which reveals the usually hidden "butterfly" adjustment, and the Senator Sixties Panorama Date, which revives a signature 1960s design.


GREUBEL FORSEY (groy-bel for-say)

Who Are They: Founded by inventors Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, whose quest is innovation and perfection in horology.

Claim To Fame: Their new-generation tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon 30, was unveiled in 2003. It was followed by the Quadruple Tourbillon a Differential.

What's Hot: The Double Tourbillon Technique. Invention Piece 3 and Tourbillon 24 Secondes, with a super-light tourbillon cage that makes one rotation every 24 seconds, instead of 60 seconds, to greatly improve accuracy.


GUCCI

Who Are They: Founded by Guccio Gucci in 1921 in Florence, Italy, where the company produced leather goods and luggage crafted by Tuscan artisans. Gucci Timepiece was created in 1997 after the company acquired the Swiss Severin Montres Group, one of the world's largest watch manufacturers and distributors.

Claim To Fame: Watches that reflect the characteristics of their it bags, like the watch with a bamboo bangle.

What's Hot: The G-Frame and G-Timeless collections.


GUY ELLIA (ghee eh-lia)

Who Are They: Established in 1999 by French jeweller and designer Guy Ellia.

Claim To Fame: Using movements by Parmigiani or Piguet, his first watch line for women, the Time Square, was launched with much success. Together with Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret, he has gone on to produce a series of complicated watches like the Z1 and Tourbillon Magistere.

What's Hot: The Repetition Minutes Zephyr, which combines minute repeater and multiple time zones in one watch.

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H

A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

H. MOSER & CIE

Who Are They: Swiss-born Heinrich Moser, who came from a watchmaking family, started his business in St Petersburg in Russia in 1828 and also opened a factory in Le Locle in 1829. After surviving changing fortunes, the brand was revived in 2002.

Claim To Fame: Moser has pioneered several key innovations, including a double-pull crown for accurate selection of functions, interchangeable escapement module that shortens the time needed to service a Moser watch (2005) and improved helical spring (2007).

What's Hot: The Perpetual Moon, with a moonphase display that deviates by only a day after more than 1,000 years.


HAMILTON

Who Are They: The Hamilton Watch Company was set up in 1892 and quickly became famous for the accuracy of its pocket watches used by railroad companies. It produced its first wristwatch in 1917. Its watches and marine chronometers have been used by the US armed forces.

Claim To Fame: The brand's early watches were so accurate that at least 12 of them are now considered collectibles. In 1957, it introduced the world's first electric watch, the Hamilton Electric 500. It came in a variety of asymmetrical models, including the Ventura.

What's Hot: The Pulsomatic, a hybrid with an automatic movement and digital readout. It is a bigger rebuilt version of the brand's Pulsar, the world's first solid-state wristwatch debuted 40 years ago.


HARRY WINSTON

Who Are They: Founded in 1932 by American jeweller Harry Winston, whose luxurious creations have appeared in movies and are popular with Hollywood stars and royalty. The company started its watchmaking arm in 1989 with women's jewellery timepieces, such as the Avenue and Premier.

Claim To Fame: Horological breakthroughs in its men's range: The Opus series, Limited Edition Westminister Tourbillon and Tourbillon Glissiere.

What's Hot: The Opus X, the 10th in the series, which uses discs to indicate time and a second time zone, and Project Z6, with its unique 24-hour alarm clock movement.


HAUTLENCE (oat-lonce)

Who Are They: Started in 2004 by three friends, including young entrepreneur Guillaume Tetu who now fronts it. The company is based in Neuchatel in Switzerland; its name is an anagram of the town's name.

Claim To Fame: The first Hautlence was born out of the founders' frustration with what they saw as the lack of innovation in high-end watchmaking. Today, the watches are known for complications, such as jumping hours and retrograde minutes, married with modern design like a TV screen-shaped case.

What's Hot: The HLc and HLq round models in white or pink gold or titanium.


HERMES

Who Are They: Founded by Thierry Hermes in 1837 as a harness workshop catering to European noblemen, the French house started offering leather items and clothing in the early 1900s under the management of Hermes' grandsons, Adolphe and Emile Maurice. It introduced its Swiss-made watch line in 1978.

Claim To Fame: The signature H-Our timepiece.

What's Hot: The Serie Neige (snow setting) jewellery watch and Arceau Moonphase Pocket Watch, with its carved mother-of-pearl dial.


HUBLOT (ew-blow)

Who Are They: Founded in 1980 by watchmaker Carlo Crocco, who created the first watch with a natural rubber strap. Presently fronted by CEO Jean-Claude Biver and owned by the LVMH group.

Claim To Fame: When Crocco fitted a gold watch with a rubber strap, it became a hit with royalty and celebrities. Ever since, incorporating rubber into watches has been a trademark of the Swiss family-run company.

What's Hot: The King Power Tourbillon Manufacture and the King Power Unico All Black, both with microblasted black ceramic cases.


HYSEK (high-sek)

Who Are They: Founded in 1997 by Swiss watchmaker Jorg Hysek, the brand has an avant-garde style, characterised by creative lines with distinctive cases and a fold-over buckle.

Claim To Fame: Its first collection was the Kilada, featuring curved cases resembling a bridge, which became the brand's emblem.

What's Hot: A new version of the Abyss Tourbillon in pink gold and titanium, the Furtif - Hysek's first skeletonised tourbillon - and IO Jumping Hour with multi-level dial.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH COMPANY (IWC)

Who Are They: Founded in 1868 by American engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones, it was the first and only watch company located in Schaffhausen, East Switzerland.

Claim To Fame: Renowned for sports watches like the Portuguese (marine navigation), Aquatimer (diving) and Spitfire (aviation), it revolutionised watchmaking in 1985 with its famous Da Vinci series, featuring a perpetual calendar and chronograph movement.

What's Hot: The new classic-look Portuguese watches, which include a grand complication (minute repeater, perpetual calendar and moonphase), a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and two tourbillons, and Da Vinci chronograph in ceramic.


ITAY NOY

Who Are They: The award-winning Israeli watch designer and artist has produced his limited edition clocks and watches, equipped with Swiss ETA calibres, in Israel since 2000.

Claim To Fame: Noy's watches are modern interpretations depicting travel and culture. The City Squares collection reflects the famous squares in key cities as seen from a bird's-eye view; the Duality series is a reversible watch with two sides.

What's Hot: The City Squares collection, which uses famous squares in major cities like San Pietro in Rome, Etoile in Paris and Trafalgar in London as enamelled dials designs.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

JACOB & CO.

Who Are They: Founded in 1986 by Russian jewellery designer Jacob Arabo in the US.

Claim To Fame: He launched his first watch in 2002 - the Five Time Zone Collection, in bold primary colours, offers multiple time zones. Made for celebrities like Sir Elton John and David Beckham, Arabo's creations boast large cases (40mm to 47mm), and he has progressed from fashionable timepieces to complicated watchmaking, such as the H-24 Five Time Zone Automatic, World GMT and limited-edition Rainbow Tourbillon collection (2005), which features a world-first integration of a tourbillon with multiple time-zone functions. The watches are made in Switzerland.

What's Hot: The slimmer Epic II chronograph with a choice of seven coloured jewel bezels, and the high jewellery Rainbow Black Diamond Baguette Tourbillon for men.


JAEGER-LECOULTRE (yay-ger le-coo-trer)

Who Are They: Founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre, an inventor and self-taught watchmaker. The first to set up a manufacture in the Valiee de Joux, Switzerland, he brought together the skills of the various craftsmen required in watchmaking.

Claim To Fame: Created the world's smallest movement, the Calibre 101, in 1929. It weighed less than one gram and comprised 74 parts - a record unmatched till today. Its iconic Reverso, with a steel case that was reversible, was created for polo players to protect the delicate sapphire crystal of their watches during a usually rough game of polo. It is still one of the brand's bestsellers today.

What's Hot: The Master Grande Tradition grand complication watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar and minute repeater, and Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire moonphase chronograph.


JAQUET DROZ (zha-kay dro)

Who Are They: Founded by Swiss-born watchmaker Pierre Jaquet-Droz in the late 18th century, it made watches, clocks and automatons (animated timekeepers). By the end of the 18th century, Jaquet Droz had three outlets in London, La Chaux-de-Fonds (both opened in 1774) and Geneva (1784).

Claim To Fame: The first self-winding watches, and winding by means of a slide on the band as seen in the Singing Bird Watch.

What's Hot: The Grande Seconde minute repeater, the all-black ceramic Grande Seconde, and the Eclipse, which displays the days, months, years and moon phases.


JEAN RICHARD (zhon ree-shar)

Who Are They: A young watch brand. It is named after legendary watchmaker Daniel JeanRichard, said to be the master of Switzerland's Jura watchmakers during the 17th century and creator of the first manufactured watch in the region.

Claim To Fame: In 2004, it created its own self-winding mechanical movement, JR 1000.

What's Hot: The 21TimeZones Zirconium, with a window that displays the time and AM/PM in the second time zone, and Diverscope JR1000 watch blending pink gold and rubber.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

LINDEWERDELIN (lin-der ver-de-lin)

Who Are They: In 2002, two Danes - watch designer Morten Linde and entrepreneur and sportsman Jorn Werdelin - partnered to produce sports watches combining high-end Swiss watchmaking and innovative Danish design and technology.

Claim To Fame: Two professional digital instruments the brand also makes - The Rock for snow skiing and The Reef for diving, both giving technical information - can be attached onto the analog watches.

What's Hot: The White Watch, the brand's first women's watch based on its popular triple-time zone 3-Timer model for men.


LOCMAN

Who Are They: The Italian watch company was founded in 1986 by watchmaker Marco Mantovani. Locman also manages two other brands of watches, Leandri and Elba Team (ET).

Claim To Fame: The 1999 Linea Sport and 2000 Diamond Alluminio models (featuring a tonneau-shaped aluminium case with a non-allergenic strap), which won celebrity fans in worldwide. The watches are made in Italy.

What's Hot: Its Donna steel watches for women with large coloured Roman numerals and three easily switchable colour straps.


LONGINES

Who Are They: Founded by watchmaker Ernest Francillon at Saint-Imier, Switzerland, with origins dating back to the 1830s.

Claim To Fame: In 1969, Longines produced the Ultra-Quartz, the first cybernetic, eletronic quartz watch, and launched the first Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) watch in 1972. Longines has been the official timekeeper at prestigious sporting events, such as the Olympic Games (since 1952), Swiss Federal Gymnastics Meet in Basel (1912), FIS 2006-2007 Alpine World Cup Tour de France.

What's Hot: The Lindbergh's Atlantic Voyage Watch, a re-issue of a chronograph that Longines had made specially for pioneer American aviator Charles Lindbergh in the early 1930s.


LOUIS ERARD (loo-ee ay-rar)

Who Are They: Founded in 1929 by watchmaker Louis Erard. In 1992, the company ceased operations due to financial difficulties, but was relaunched by private investors in 2003.

Claim To Fame: In 1931, it launched its first watch line - the 1931, Heritage, Les Asymmetriques, La Sportive, La Carree and Emotion.

What's Hot: The upsized 44mm steel and 40mm steel-and-rose-gold additions to the 1931 Collection, featuring day-date and moon phase displays.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

MAURICE LACROIX (mor-rees la-kwa)

Who Are They: An assembly workshop established in Saignelegier, Switzerland, by its parent company, Desco von Schulthess AG. in 1961, to make watch parts for other companies. The brand was established in 1975, and became a full-fledged manufacture in 2006. It produces its complex movements in-house.

Claim To Fame: Its expertise lies in the area of retrograde displays, moonphase indicators and chronographs, such as the ML 106 movement, Memoire 1 and the Grande Complication (2008).

What's Hot: The Masterpiece Regulateur Roue Carree, with a square wheel that indicates the hours, and Phase de Lune day-date and moonphase watches for men and women.


MB&F

Who Are They: Founded by Maximilian Busser in 2005 - its initials stand for "Maximilian Busser & Friends" - the brand is a platform for collaborations between horological masterminds to create avant-garde, experimental and one-of-a-kind timepieces.

Claim To Fame: The brand launched the Horological Machine No. 1 or HM1, in 2006, the HM2 in 2007 and HM3 in 2008.

What's Hot: The recently launched HM4 Thunderbolt, with a titanium-sapphire case, that looks like a spaceship with two huge engines.


MILUS

Who Are They: Founded in 1919 by watchmaker Paul William Junod, who dreamt of creating "a solid yet elegant watch, an exquisite accessory that everyone would love to possess".

Claim To Fame: Its design concept: "A Milus watch conveys the personality of its owner for whom the aesthetical aspect prevails and must never be overshadowed by the perfect mastery of the technique."

What's Hot: The Tirion Repetition Minutes TriRetrograde, which features a minute repeater and three retrograde seconds displays - a Milus signature.


MONTBLANC (mong-blonk)

Who Are They: Founded in 1906 by Hamburg stationer Claus-Johannes Voss, Hamburg banker Alfred Nehemias and Berlin engineer August Eberstin as a manufacturer of writing instruments. In the 1990s, it introduced a leather goods range and later added jewellery, accessories, frangrances and watches, all made in Switzerland by skilled watchmakers.

Claim To Fame: Presented their first in-house manufactured calibre, which is featured in the new Star Nicolas Rieussec Collection.

What's Hot: The Metamorphosis with two changeable dials, ExoTourbillon Chronograph with second time zone, Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph with silicon escapement and TimeWalker Chrono with a diamond bezel for women.


MOVADO (mow-va-doe)

Who Are They: Founded in 1881 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, by watchmaker and entrepreneur Achilles Ditesheim.

Claim To Fame: Renowned for its Museum watch collection, with solid black dials and a single dot at the 12 o'clock position (representing the sun at noon), and simple hour and minute markers. The lightweight watches feature a highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

What's Hot: The Artists' Series of six limited edition watches with colourful dials designed by contemporary American pop artist Kenny Scharf.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

OMEGA

Who Are They: Founded in 1848 as Louis Brandt & Fils (by watchmaker Louis Brandt and his eldest son). The brand adopted its current name in 1894.

Claim To Fame: In 1894, the Omega 19 calibre was created. The principle of interchangeable parts was later adopted by other watch manufacturers. In 1909, Omega timed its first sporting event, and became the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games in 1932.

What's Hot: The De Ville Skeleton Tourbillon Co-Axial in platinum with unique centrally-placed tourbillon and two discs with pointers, instead of hands, to indicate hours and minutes. The seconds hand is mounted on top of the cage, which makes one rotation every 60 seconds.


ORIS

Who Are They: Established by watchmakers Paul Cattin and Georges Christian in 1904 in Holderbank, Switzerland, to make mechanical watches.

Claim To Fame: In 1938, Oris launched its first Oris Pointer calendar movement, which remains an important part of the brand's collection today. In 1966, it produced the world-famous automatic movement Calibre 645 with a 25-jewel lever escapement, and launched its first chronograph, Chronoris, in 1970, to great success.

What's Hot: The Col Moschin diver's watch, named after the Italian special forces who tested it, and the Porsche-inspired Darryl O'Young, named after the Porsche racing champion.

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A watch is not just a pretty face. Behind every one is a slew of fascinating facts - from history and heritage to innovations and new directions. Here's an essential A to Z guide on watchmaking names you should know.

PANERAI

Who Are They: Giovanni Panerai founded the first watchmaker's shop in Florence, Italy, in 1860. The brand became famous when Hollywood action star Sylvester Stallone wore a Panerai Luminor he had bought in Rome in his 1996 film, Daylight. Stallone also gave the watches as gifts to friends.

Claim To Fame: Well-known for its diving watches, initially created for the Royal Italian Navy. The Radiomir (1938) features a luminous dial to aid vision while underwater. Its 1940s Luminor had a locking device that made the watch water-resistant to up to 200m - a remarkable achievement at the time. Panerai is also known for starting the big watch trend.

What's Hot: Two new black ceramic watches - Lo Scienziato skeleton tourbillon, and Luminor 1950 with second time zone and 10-day power reserve.


PARMIGIANI

Who Are They: Parmigiani is helmed by Michel Parmigiani, who hails from Val-de-Travers in Switzerland. He set up his company just over 30 years ago and devoted himself to the restoration of renowned creations. Thanks to the Sandoz Family Foundation, the Parmigiani Fleurier brand was born 10 years ago out of a shared vision for watchmaking of great value.

Claim To Fame: The Bugatti 370, whose transversal movement took the horological world by storm. Parmigiani Fleurier's aesthetic lies in arranging a watch's constituent parts like an engine block, along a horizontal rather than vertical axis.

What's Hot: The Bugatti Atalante flyback chronograph - the brand's first - is inspired by the Bugatti Atalante 57S Spor car of the 1930s. The women's version has diamonds on the bezel and ring of the 30-minutes counter dial.


PATEK PHILIPPE

Who Are They: Founded in 1839 by Polish trader Antoine Norbert de Patek and watchmaker Francois Czapek, it got its name when Patek formed a new partnership with French watchmaker Adrien Philippe.

Claim To Fame: Patek Philippe, now a Swiss company, has over 70 patents to its name, for its watch movements and designs like the disjointed winding shaft and perpetual calendar mechanism. It is one of the most prestigious and revered watch brands in the world, and commands top prices at auctions.

What's Hot: The Ref. 7071R, or Ladies First Chronograph, is the brand's first for women. It is powered by the new CH 29-535 PS hand-wound movement, and has a diamond on the outer rim of the dial. There are also five new chronographs for men, including perpetual and annual calendar models.


PHILIPPE DUFOUR (fee-leep doo-foor)

Who Are They: An independent watchmaker, Philippe Dufour firmly believes in harmonising innovation and tradition. He worked previously with Audemars Piguet and Gerald Genta, and went solo in 1989. Meticulously handmade, his watches are highly sought-after by watch enthusiasts.

Claim To Fame: Dufour created the Duality (1996), the world's first double escapement wristwatch with a visible mechanism.

What's Hot: The Simplicity, so-called because the hand-crafted watch displays only hours, minutes and seconds - Dufour is renowned for his complicated watches.


PIAGET (pee-ah-zhay)

Who Are They: Founded in 1874 in La Cote-aux-Fees, Switzerland, by Georges Edouard Piaget, who developed and produced watch movements for other companies. In 1943, Piaget started producing its own watches, and unveiled its first bejewelled watch collection in the 1960s.

Claim To Fame: Its Calibre 12P of 1960, an ultra-thin movement at 2.3mm, was listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the thinnest self-winding movement in the world at the time.

What's Hot: The new ultra-thin Altiplano men's watches - including a diamond skeletal model - celebrating the 50th anniversary of the 12P. For women, the Polo Fortyfive Lady is the female version of the sporty men's classic.