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Ever since I presented the 5 kopi-talk awards, I have wanted to share my thoughts on brands that are declining or are struggling to establish themselves. However, while I have my own feel of what some of these brands are, I realise I cannot back up with statistics in naming those as declining or struggling. Hence, this article intends to pose a question and not make a statement. The last two candidates might be surprises to some but they should be viewed with the subject title in mind.
Anonimo
Seen by some as the poor cousin of Panerai, the latest offerings from Anonimo show its effort to move away from that connection which was once its selling point. One journalist titles his review of the Basel 2013 collections “The rebirth of Anonimo”, but I find them highly resembling some of the JeanRichard watches. Not enough evolution to differentiate itself in the war of dive/military watches, I am afraid.
Azumith
I have shared my views about this local brand at least twice in this forum but for the sake of completeness I shall repeat here. A watch manufacturer that has not already established itself as a high-end luxury brand needs some or at least a profitable flagship model for the mass market and Azumith lacks just that. The focus on “design & engineering”, as the brand try to communicate, is admirable. Many of its models are creative and are fun to play with, but are more suited for collection and less practical for use by the average folks. No new models announced in the past 3 years (correct me if I am wrong), is a worrying fact. I have had few dealings with Alvin Lye, one of the co-founder, since the Holland V days and like him as a person. I sincerely hope he sells enough watches to sustain or even grow the business and place Singapore in the world map of horology.
PS. I spare you from my opinion of the “sea-hum”
Graham
This British clock maker turned watch maker appeared to be near success at one point at the back of some aggressive marketing. Its gigantic lever crown guard differentiated itself from the competition, but we all know who won the battle of huge crown guard. Although its watches offered arguably the highest discount off the list price (40% or so), Graham is no longer carried by any authorised dealers here in Singapore today. Will U-boat have the same fate?
Longines
It is sad that a brand with such significant history and great potential is being positioned at the same level as Rado and Union Glashutte. All three are grouped under the “High Range”, a second tier category, within the Swatch Group. Once in the forefront of technology, Longines has become one of the many also-rans using the ETA movements. Could it had done better had it (had the resources) to remain independent? I personally believe so. I wish the CEO wakes up one morning and decide to rebrand it.
Tudor
The “sub brand” of the most popular watch brand is somewhat successful, in complementing Rolex and less so in itself. I base that on the fact that I have very rarely spotted someone wearing a Tudor watch, excluding those seen on forums. Nevertheless, the existence of Tudor is important as it allows Rolex to stick to its proven identity and yet be able to compete in the lower segments outside its territory. So far, the most sought after Tudor watches are either those with a Rolex DNA, or, in the more recent time, the heritage/re-edition series. True new model such as the Fastrider announced this year continues to be the side show, although Rolex has tried very hard to establish Tudor as a recognised brand by its own merit. Which direction is Tudor heading in long term, should be seen as part of Rolex overall strategy, and is of great interest to many watch enthusiasts.
Anonimo
Seen by some as the poor cousin of Panerai, the latest offerings from Anonimo show its effort to move away from that connection which was once its selling point. One journalist titles his review of the Basel 2013 collections “The rebirth of Anonimo”, but I find them highly resembling some of the JeanRichard watches. Not enough evolution to differentiate itself in the war of dive/military watches, I am afraid.
Azumith
I have shared my views about this local brand at least twice in this forum but for the sake of completeness I shall repeat here. A watch manufacturer that has not already established itself as a high-end luxury brand needs some or at least a profitable flagship model for the mass market and Azumith lacks just that. The focus on “design & engineering”, as the brand try to communicate, is admirable. Many of its models are creative and are fun to play with, but are more suited for collection and less practical for use by the average folks. No new models announced in the past 3 years (correct me if I am wrong), is a worrying fact. I have had few dealings with Alvin Lye, one of the co-founder, since the Holland V days and like him as a person. I sincerely hope he sells enough watches to sustain or even grow the business and place Singapore in the world map of horology.
PS. I spare you from my opinion of the “sea-hum”
Graham
This British clock maker turned watch maker appeared to be near success at one point at the back of some aggressive marketing. Its gigantic lever crown guard differentiated itself from the competition, but we all know who won the battle of huge crown guard. Although its watches offered arguably the highest discount off the list price (40% or so), Graham is no longer carried by any authorised dealers here in Singapore today. Will U-boat have the same fate?
Longines
It is sad that a brand with such significant history and great potential is being positioned at the same level as Rado and Union Glashutte. All three are grouped under the “High Range”, a second tier category, within the Swatch Group. Once in the forefront of technology, Longines has become one of the many also-rans using the ETA movements. Could it had done better had it (had the resources) to remain independent? I personally believe so. I wish the CEO wakes up one morning and decide to rebrand it.
Tudor
The “sub brand” of the most popular watch brand is somewhat successful, in complementing Rolex and less so in itself. I base that on the fact that I have very rarely spotted someone wearing a Tudor watch, excluding those seen on forums. Nevertheless, the existence of Tudor is important as it allows Rolex to stick to its proven identity and yet be able to compete in the lower segments outside its territory. So far, the most sought after Tudor watches are either those with a Rolex DNA, or, in the more recent time, the heritage/re-edition series. True new model such as the Fastrider announced this year continues to be the side show, although Rolex has tried very hard to establish Tudor as a recognised brand by its own merit. Which direction is Tudor heading in long term, should be seen as part of Rolex overall strategy, and is of great interest to many watch enthusiasts.
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